




Class 



Copyright N° 


COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 





































































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4 














“Dame Curtsey’s” Book of 
Beauty Talks 




‘Dame Curtsey’s” Book of 
Beauty Talks 


By 

Ellye Howell Glover 

Author of “ Dame Curtsey's" Book of Guessing Contests, 
“Dame Curtsey's" Book of Novel Entertainments, 
“Dame Curtsey's" Book of Cooking Recipes, etc. 



> ) 


Chicago 

A. C. McClurg & Co. 

1923 



Copyright 

A. C. McClurg & Co. 
1923 


Published June, 1923 


Copyrighted in Great Britain 



©C1A704S71 

Printed in the United States of America 

M. A. DONOHUE St CO., PRINTERS AND BINDERS, CHICAGO 




Acknowledgment 


T HE author wishes to acknowledge with 
thanks the courtesy of The Magazine Cir¬ 
culation Co., Inc., in permitting her to use 
in this book some of her material that had already 
appeared in the “Woman’s Weekly” and “Home 
Craft.” 


Contents 


CHAPTER PAGE 

I Baths and Bathing. i 

II Mouth and Teeth.io 

III Care of Skin and Complexion.17 

IV Hair and Shampooing.43 

V Care of the Feet.67 

VI Arms and Hands.78 

VII Eyes and Eyebrows.91 

VIII General Health and Information . . . .100 













Introduction 


IS every woman’s duty to be as beautiful as 



she can, to take every possible care of her com ■ 


X. plexion, her hands, her hair, and her general 
health, and as this is such a busy world we are going 
to try, in this little book, to make our talks practical, 
our remedies simple and the precepts laid down so 
clear that she who runs may read and be benefited. 

“IjTT’S an ill wind that blows nobody good!” 

I That is just as true today as when it was writ- 

X- ten. This house-maidless condition has been 
the greatest reducer of superfluous avoirdupois and 
these conditions have caused the builders of reduc¬ 
ing tablets to almost close up shop. 

Many women, willy-nilly, have had to do their 
own housework, be their own second maids, nur¬ 
sery maids and ofttimes their own laundresses 
with the result that we see more good figures than 
ever before. There is no exercise for reducing 
waist and hip lines comparable to scrubbing and 
wiping down the stairs. Of course it’s not quite 
so interesting to recount how often you have 
had to fly either up or down stairs to let in the 
butcher, baker and candlestick maker as it is to re- 


Introduction 


late your experiences at the dance, the opera, or 
the club. Be that as it may, housework if taken in 
the right spirit is a beautifier; with the proper equip¬ 
ment, it is an interesting game. 

There are such becoming aprons with caps to 
match and such comfortable as well as good looking 
slippers with straps and medium heels just right for 
house wear. And right here let me say that no one 
should attempt to work in high-heeled slippers, for 
they are ruinous to backs, feet and temper and are 
not aids to beauty during work hours. Worn stead¬ 
ily, they are tiring and before we know it tired lines 
come in the face and it takes hours of massage to 
eradicate a few minutes’ thoughtlessness. Low 
heeled white canvas slippers look very well with 
house dresses and are not difficult to keep clean. 

Of course, nearly every one has a vacuum cleaner, 
but there is always more or less dust, s-o when on 
duty about the house it is best to keep the hair cov¬ 
ered. Also keep almond meal, a can of best soap 
powder (I like the regular shaving soap powder 
best of all), half a lemon and a bit of pumice in 
the kitchen for quick first aid to the hands. It is 
a great mistake to let grime or stains or dirt of any 
kind remain on the hands a moment longer than 
necessary. A bit of cold cream rubbed in often will 
serve to keep the skin soft. 



Introduction 


It is a fallacy to think that going up and down 
stairs is a bad thing. On the contrary, if done prop¬ 
erly, it is one of the very best of exercises. Hold the 
figure erect, step on the ball of the foot and go up 
and down deliberately and (here is the greatest aid 
to beauty possible) keep a contented mind. It’s all 
in the point of view. In the past, very few of us 
worked to the right ends. We had too much time 
to think about ourselves, our ills, our pleasures and 
as I look back I wonder how most of us existed. 

Nowadays there are more seekers coming to the 
beauty specialists than ever before, but it is for in¬ 
tensive training as it were. They must have the 
very best suggestions for they have such a short 
time to devote to personal care, yet, never before 
has personal appearance and splendid health 
counted for so much. 

The girl or woman, with a trim, neat figure, care¬ 
fully coiffed hair, immaculately groomed finger nails 
and a fresh, clean skin has ten chances of obtaining 
a position to one that the slovenly, muddy-skinned, 
frowsy-haired applicant has. By the way, very re¬ 
cently I heard a business man telling his experience 
in sizing up applicants for his office. How I did 
wish every would-be possessor of a fine position, 
such as this man’s, could have heard his description 
of the rouged, powdered, georgette-waist-clad indi- 



Introduction 


viduals who applied. If the girls only realized how 
much better their chances were if they donned sane 
clothes and left off the make-up! 

All this, I fear, is a digression, as these and other 
subjects are cared for in the following chapters. 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Book of 
Beauty Talks 

CHAPTER I 

BATHS AND BATHING 

O NCE upon a time in the far away southland 
an old colored preacher rose in the pulpit 
and said, “ My tex’ dis mawning am cleanli¬ 
ness is nex* to Godliness and dat explains why Mon¬ 
day am always wash day in de bes’ regulated fami¬ 
lies as it always follows de Sabbath day.” 

My text in this chapter is cleanliness — and if 
every one of my readers followed out the good old- 
fashioned soap and water cleaning there would not 
be so many wails regarding blackheads, gooseflesh, 
grimy faces and dark circles on the neck. If one 
lives in the city or in a town where there is much 
dust, soot and smoke, it is impossible to remove it 
without a nightly scrub with warm, soapy water, 
and a thorough rinsing with tepid and then icy cold, 
right from the faucet in winter. In warm weather 
it is a good plan to put a bit of ice in the washcloth 
and wipe the face and neck with it. 


“Dame Curtsey’s 9 ’ Beauty Talks 


If there is gooseflesh on the arms and on the 
elbows, this treatment of the soapy water, the cold 
rinse and a brisk rubbing will help immensely, and 
a bit of cold cream, the same as you use on your 
face, may be used on the arms and elbows. Party 
frocks show many sleeveless models, and so many of 
us already possess elbow length sleeves which we 
cannot afford to discard that much attention must 
be paid to arms and elbows. I assure you that at 
least ten minutes extra must be added to the time 
allotted to our beauty treatments; that gives five 
minutes for each arm, and it is none too much. 

The question is often asked, what is the best kind 
of soap to use, so I am going to answer it right here 
by saying that there are enough soaps on the mar¬ 
ket to suit nearly every individual. It all depends 
upon the texture of the skin. Some skins are so 
very thin and delicate that only the mildest soap 
will do at all; other skins of tougher texture will 
stand most any kind of good soap as long as it is 
made of pure ingredients. Some skins will take 
glycerine and others will not, so I say try out sev¬ 
eral and find just what best agrees w T ith you person¬ 
ally and then stick to it. 

Very sensitive complexions will usually take a 
Castile soap, which is mild and exceedingly cleans¬ 
ing and is used on wee babies. A trained nurse once 



Baths and Bathing 


laughingly said, “ I never have much time for friv¬ 
olities; all I can do is to keep clean, and it takes 
lots of soap and water and elbow grease.” That is 
what I am trying to get over in this talk. I am 
asked so often if a cleansing with cold cream will 
not remove dirt; it will to a certain extent and may 
be used when traveling, especially if you can have 
a tiny bottle of alcohol or even camphor to help re¬ 
move the travel stains. It takes such frequent wash¬ 
ing when on a long railroad journey that the skin 
is apt to suffer, and the cold cream is soothing. A 
vanishing cream may be applied in the morning as 
a basis for the powder that will in a great measure 
protect the face. 

Coming home from New York one time while the 
porter made up my berth I found a most interest¬ 
ing young woman my vis-a-vis (by the way, how 
often we meet charming people and gain valuable 
bits of information in a few short minutes). Being 
naturally a chilly mortal (physically not socially) I 
was lamenting the approach of cold weather. She 
said: “Try this: Every morning, as a cold bath 
evidently is not suited to you, take a brush with a 
strap across it like those used to curry horses and 
go over your entire body vigorously and you will be 
warm all day. Do the same at night and I’ll war¬ 
rant you’ll be as snug and comfy as a bug in a rug.” 


3 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


After all, beauty depends upon circulation, for with¬ 
out it comes a train of evils too long to enumerate in 
limited space. 

With the heat of summer come a thousand and 
one conditions that bring floods of complaints, de¬ 
ploring an unsatisfactory state of the hair, the skin 
and the general tone of the entire system as being 
below par. All of which affect one’s personal 
beauty. Perhaps more often than others comes the 
request for relief from an oily skin, oily tresses and 
general moisty condition of the entire body. These 
unpleasant manifestations are all too prevalent in 
hot weather. Very hot days may cause excessive 
perspiration, but those who do not perspire enough 
are most uncomfortable, often suffering an intense 
burning, quite as hard to endure as the more notice¬ 
able trouble. So for those who are subject to ex¬ 
cessive perspiration, we say a daily morning tub, 
either cold or tepid, and one at night of warm water 
are essential, with a clean set of undergarments each 
morning. That is why wash crepe is such a boon, 
as it washes and shakes out perfectly sweet and 
fresh with an over-night drying. Then the feet 
must have extra attention, with a cooling bath, a 
light rub with diluted witch hazel or alcohol or any 
toilet water at hand, then a dusting between the toes 
and on the soles with talcum powder. Silk stockings 


4 



Baths and Bathing 


must be washed out nightly and even before they 
are worn it is well to dip them in water. The secret 
of being able to afford silk hosiery at all is to care 
for it like an only child. Never let the perspiration 
of the day remain even over night, and keep two or 
three pairs of hose in use, alternating, and the wear¬ 
ing qualities will be almost doubled. 

The daily shower will do much to keep the skin 
cool in summer, and all clothing should be well aired 
before being donned again after wearing. 

Constant bathing is necessary, in fact imperative, 
to prevent excessive perspiration, and excellent re¬ 
sults can be obtained from the following recipe: 

Powdered starch, i oz. 

Salicylic acid, x /z dr. 

Oleate of zinc, i dr. 

Mix and dust the affected parts. 

Strong soaps of naphthol or eucalyptus are help¬ 
ful, and the following solution may also be used: 

Boric acid, i dr. 

Witch hazel, 2 oz. 

Rose water, 1 oz. 

Apply the latter to soles of feet, palms of hands 
and under the arms. 

Druggists have any number of perfumed bath 
tablets which are not expensive, compared to liquid 
perfumes and they leave the body daintily scented 


5 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


and are especially nice to use before dressing for a 
party. If there is excessive perspiration a quick 
sponge with hot water and soda under the arms, 
under the knees, the feet and palms of the hands 
will help. Dust off with talcum powder. 

TOILET POWDER FOR THE NURSERY 

Talcum, n av. oz. 

Salicylic acid, 165 gr. 

Boric acid, av. oz. 

Various Kinds of Baths 

The value of the bath is inestimable, and its an¬ 
cient origin is unquestionable, as we read in the 
Bible how the daughter of King Pharaoh went 
“down to the river to bathe” and there discovered 
Moses. You may be sure Miriam knew full well 
that her Royal Highness would not neglect her daily 
ablutions. 

History tells us that many of the races mentioned 
in ancient history associated the bath with moral 
purification as well as with bodily purity; in fact, 
the use of baths and bathing was a factor of civiliza¬ 
tion. 

East Indian literature tells of the Ganges being 
used as a common bath tub, while Homer refers to 
the Greeks as being great swimmers and bathers. 
The luxurious baths of the Persians were noted by 
6 



Baths and Bathing 


no less a personage than Alexander the Great who 
admired their magnificence. 

Rome under the Empire had a most elaborate sys¬ 
tem of baths, its aqueducts and immense bathing 
pavilions never having been surpassed; they had 
heating apparatus and also utilized the natural hot 
springs found in the vicinity. Here, no doubt the 
hot springs for baths originated as we have the 
same principle worked out in our modern Turkish 
baths. By the way, this kind of a bath was intro¬ 
duced into Europe by the Crusaders, when they re¬ 
turned home from their many fruitless expeditions 
of trying to regain the Holy Sepulchre. 

The Russian bath has a form peculiarly its own; 
the bather lies down upon a wooden platform which 
is built in a series of steps that reach almost to the 
ceiling. The heat, of course, becomes more intense 
as the subject changes to the higher platforms. The 
vapor is made by throwing water upon hot stones. 

A mild form of this bath is very efficacious used 
under the direction of a physician, as all extreme 
baths should be. One should be sure that there is 
no heart trouble. Taken under the proper auspices, 
with sufficient rest afterwards, they are a luxury and 
a source of comfort not to be underestimated, as 
the feeling of cleanliness is delightful. 

It is said that the Japanese as a race are more 


7 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


given to bathing than any other nation. This may 
in some degree account for their being almost im¬ 
mune from rheumatism. It is a fact also that scar¬ 
let fever is an unknown disease with the Japanese. 

The curative value of the many mud baths, elec¬ 
tric baths, and the various baths given under the 
direct rays of colored lights are more or less ques¬ 
tionable. The rigid regime that patients must fol¬ 
low while taking any of these cures, has a great deal 
to do with the benefit derived therefrom. A com¬ 
petent physician should always prescribe any of 
these cures, and then the relaxation, careful diet, 
regular hours all are conducive to improvement, as 
the course at any of the sanitariums is of several 
weeks’ duration. 

Mineral baths are of value, inasmuch as the slate, 
iron, soda, magnesia, etc., which they contain are 
necessary to the human body, and are especially 
valuable in gouty conditions. 

The modern baby is put into a full bath tub at 
the early age of a week or ten days, that is, if it is 
a normal child. The room must be hot, 75 or 85 
degrees Fahrenheit, and the “tub” must be of 
enamel or a papier mache basin which can be kept 
very clean. For a wee infant the water may be 100 
degrees Fahrenheit for the first few weeks, then 
reduce to 98 degrees, and after six months to 95 
8 



Baths and Bathing 


degrees. The daily bath should be given as a mat¬ 
ter of course until up to Kindergarten age, when the 
child should be able to take a bath and follow with 
a cold shower all by himself. 


9 



CHAPTER II 

MOUTH AND TEETH 


I F THE next generation proves to be a race of 
beauties much will be owing to the fact that 
the care of the teeth has become a vital ques¬ 
tion. Probably no one attribute is more essential 
to good looks than good, strong, well-formed uppers 
and lowers. The whole expression of the face is 
changed by decayed or discolored teeth. Now, note 
this astounding fact — out of nearly two thousand 
children of school age who were recently examined 
only one in eighteen had really sound teeth. Isn’t 
that a condition that makes us every one sit up and 
take notice? 

In welfare work one of the first truths to be 
driven home is that growing children must have 
coarse breads, like bran, rye and whole wheat and 
very little bread baked with white flour alone. The 
enamel that forms the outer coating of a tooth is 
largely constructed of fluorine and this constituent 
is also in the outer envelope of grain. The proper 
food administered in the earliest days of childhood 
has much to do with forming a strong tooth struc- 

IO 


Mouth and Teeth 


ture and the preservation of the first or so-called 
milk teeth is of the greatest importance. Decay in 
these first teeth will affect to a serious degree the 
new ones forming beneath them. Infants should 
have their mouths carefully cleansed by wrapping a 
sterilized cloth around the finger, first dipping in 
boracic acid water and wiping the tender gums most 
gently. This should be done at bath time in the 
morning and in the evening at bedtime. 

Just as soon as a child is old enough he should be 
provided with a small, medium-hard brush, and 
taught the use of a standard dentifrice, then the 
rinsing of his mouth, washing and shaking out the 
brush and putting it in his own holder. 

Absolute cleanliness of the mouth and teeth 
provides the greatest protection from that dread 
condition known as pyorrhea. Many who are af¬ 
flicted with this painful condition resent the sugges¬ 
tion that they have not taken most painstaking care 
of their teeth. The truth is that they have never 
been taught the really right way of brushing teeth, 
which should be done with a firm downward stroke 
that tends to keep the gums growing as they should. 
Then inside and outside the teeth must receive a 
careful cleaning. A weak solution of salty water 
serves to harden and keep the gum tissues in good 
condition; also, tartar must never be allowed to 


ii 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


accumulate. That means a visit to the dentist at 
regular intervals. Children as well as adults must 
understand the value of dental floss and its use, if 
not daily, at least three times a week, as minute 
particles of food adhere to the teeth and can be 
removed only by the use of the floss. The floss is 
worked up between the teeth and drawn out, not 
down, as the latter method would force the food 
particles to stick again. 

Often a painful condition of the gum exists on 
account of too great acidity from the stomach. In 
that case the use of milk of magnesia is a valuable 
asset in restoring a normal condition. Rinse the 
mouth with it at bedtime, it coats the gums and 
teeth and gives great relief to receding gums if not 
rinsed ofl for some hours. Lime water is also an 
excellent preparation and very easily obtainable. 
Crooked and badly formed teeth are subjects for 
dental experts, but no form of surgery has made 
greater strides than the so-called “ facial ” and even 
the most disfiguring conditions are so greatly bene¬ 
fited that no child with such defects should be neg¬ 
lected. As bristles are at the top-notch price, and 
toothbrushes are really quite an item, it is a good 
plan to buy two or three and use alternately; they 
last much longer this way. Always rinse the brush 
in cold water before putting away, to stiffen the 



Mouth and Teeth 


bristles. Where there are several members of a 
household and all have to use the family bathroom, 
it is a good plan to have colored handles of cellu¬ 
loid : pink, blue, lavender, yellow, and tortoise shell, 
make quite a variety of tints from which to select 
so that no mistaking one’s own brush can be pos¬ 
sible. The same colors might be carried out in the 
individual marking of towels and wash cloths. 

Refreshing Mouth Wash 

Here is a simple but refreshing mouth wash which 
beautifies the teeth. You can make it at home and 
it is perfectly harmless (as are all suggestions or 
recipes given in this book). Take two ounces of 
best borax, dissolve in three pints of boiling water. 
Before it is cold, add one tablespoon of spirits of 
camphor. Bottle it and use, say a teaspoonful in an 
equal quantity of water. Rinse the mouth thor¬ 
oughly with this wash which will give a sweet re¬ 
freshing taste and is cleansing. 

To Remedy Thick Lips 

It is true that a great deal may be done to change 
the lips for the better. For the thick lower lip you 
may make it appear narrower by remembering never 
to allow the lips to push out, but hold them in firmly, 


13 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


and use no rouge, which would make them notice¬ 
able. Seems to me, though, that if you just hold 
the lips naturally the thickness will not be notice¬ 
able. You are no doubt more conscious of them 
than is anyone else, and a pleasant expression does 
more than anything else to make people disregard 
lack of physical perfection. 

Pale Lips 

Pale, colorless lips usually indicate a low state of 
the system, poor circulation and general low state. 
So my first advice is to consult a physician for a 
thorough going over. Badly shaped lips are hard 
to remedy, but by concentrated thought they may 
be kept from sagging and the corners from drawing 
down into unpleasant lines. I believe you might 
change the general contour if you try. 

Brushing the Teeth 

None of us brush our teeth half long enough. 
They should be actually scrubbed with a good tooth 
paste or powder. Work the brush in and out and 
around and brush from the gums down on the up¬ 
pers and from the gums up on the lowers. Den¬ 
tists say such treatment will greatly decrease that 
dread disease pyorrhea. The tooth brush crusade 


*4 



Mouth and Teeth 


among school children is one of the greatest beauty 
aids that has been inaugurated. 

TOOTH POWDER 

Precipitated chalk, 5 oz. 

Oil of rose, 2 dr. 

Powdered camphor, 16 oz. 

Mix and put through a sieve to take out all lumps. 

“ Ruby lips and teeth like pearls,” was the de¬ 
scription given every heroine in novels by the 
“ Duchess,” “ Ouida,” and other novelists whose 
stories were eagerly devoured by the belles of fifty 
years ago. 

As a feature of expression the mouth comes next 
to the eyes. It is a medium that portrays uncon¬ 
sciously all the elements of human emotions. Oliver 
Wendell Holmes, that keen observer of human 
nature, says that a gentleman should be calm- 
mouthed, and this is equally applicable to the femi¬ 
nine portion of humanity, for what is more disturb¬ 
ing to watch than a series of contortions of the 
mouth. 

Just watch your neighbors some morning on the 
car on your way down town; you will find the rigid, 
strained individual with lips tightly compressed, the 
person who chews gum in public is ever present, 
there will be the sour-looking creature whose mouth 
droops at the corners, and there will be the girl 



“Dame Curtsey’s ’ 9 Beauty Talks 


who has pretty teeth and knows it as she never quite 
closes her mouth. 

The standard by which we judge beauty tells us 
that the perfect mouth has lips which meet gently 
and are of a real red color (known to artists as 
vermilion), as this indicates perfect health. The 
upper lip should be a bit short and a trifle less full 
than the lower one, but neither should be notice¬ 
ably thick or thin, as the former denotes grossness 
and the latter is apt to indicate a mean, vindictive 
nature. 


1 6 



CHAPTER III 

CARE OF SKIN AND COMPLEXION 


** IT IT OW do you manage to keep so immacu- 

I I lately fresh and so well groomed when 
JL it’s so beastly hot and dusty?” asked a 
tall, thin, worried young woman as she returned 
from about the sixteenth trip to the toilet room on 
the Overland Limited. Her companion-de-voyage 
moved over to permit her to share the seat while 
her section was being restored to order by the dusky 
porter whose patience was, I am sure, quite ex¬ 
hausted by the onslaught made on his daily supply 
of clean towels. 

Always on the alert for suggestions that are 
really practical and worth while, I jotted down 
some of the recipes the experienced traveler gave 
this beauty seeker. This dainty creature of whom 
I became very fond on my coast to coast journey 
had traveling as an art reduced to its lowest terms. 

“ First,” she said, “ I think happy thoughts and no 
matter what happens, what delays, what annoyances 
come, if I cannot remedy them I let them go, be¬ 
cause fretting ruins the digestion and I cannot af- 


17 


“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


ford to be the least bit upset. You notice I never 
read more than an hour at a time; then I close my 
eyes for ten or fifteen minutes to relieve the unusual 
eye strain that is bound to come on the train, for 
one does look more or less at the landscape flying 
by. Unconsciously, squinting is the natural result 
and fine hair lines are formed almost over night and 
there can be no beauty if the face assumes a wor¬ 
ried, strained expression. 

“ If one’s hair is abnormally straight, of course 
a permanent wave does add a lot to the looks and 
consequent peace of mind, and if Nature has sup¬ 
plied a natural kink, hair nets will keep the neces¬ 
sary order. In summer I always remove my tai¬ 
lored suit, place it on a hanger, cover with a case 
made from black silkaline and there it stays and 
emerges in first-class condition, so when I step from 
the train my friends invariably exclaim, ‘ Why, you 
look as if you had just stepped from the tailor shop.’ 
I find a navy blue taffeta, a voile of the same color 
or gray or dark blue dotted swiss make ideal travel¬ 
ing frocks with a daily change of white collars, 
fronts and turn-back cuffs on the elbow sleeves. 
To keep my feet nice and comfy my street shoes 
are removed with the street suit and these soft gray 
suede slippers or white oxfords are worn until the 
journey’s end. Then, every night, the soles and be- 
18 



Care of Skin and Complexion 


tween the toes are mopped with witch hazel and 
dusted with talcum powder. By the way, I am sure 
you will like to know how I carry my toilet articles 
and never have upset bottles,” and she produced a 
black seal leather grip quite small, but with straps 
to hold each bottle in place along the sides, and a 
folding case which fitted in the bottom contained her 
manicure outfit. 

There was peroxide of hydrogen containing a bit 
of ammonia which she used to keep the faint fuzz 
on her upper lip bleached into almost invisibility; 
witch hazel, which is a most soothing lotion applied 
to any sore or aching joint, as well as an efficacious 
astringent when applied to enlarged pores after 
bathing the face; a small vial of alcohol (or toilet 
water) for use in removing grime and dust that is 
so sticky in hot weather and a plentiful supply of 
soft cloths for cleansing the face from cold cream. 
If the woman’s dressing room is overcrowded, the 
experienced traveler may leave her hair up all night, 
protected by a net, dress in her berth and wash with 
alcohol or toilet water. Then a few moments will 
be all she needs in the dressing room to cleanse her 
teeth and then get to breakfast before the last call. 
About the middle of the morning she can get the 
dressing room to herself and appear at luncheon 
with freshly combed hair and refreshed from a plen- 


19 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


tiful application of soap and water. 

“ One is apt to become very tanned from riding 
on the observation car and nothing thickens and 
coarsens the complexion like a coating of tan, so a 
careful preparation should be made as follows: 
Cleanse the skin, including the neck, using an up¬ 
ward motion; then after a few minutes wipe off 
gently with a soft cloth, then powder evenly. Be 
sure that the whole surface receives attention and 
not just dabs on the cheeks. Next anoint the lips 
with a bit of cold cream or a lip-stick, for they are 
apt to become very parched and dry in the wind 
and will crack in less than no time. 

“A veil of white chiffon wound around into a 
cap effect, with an end left for protecting the face 
will be far more comfortable than a hat and will 
keep stray cinders out of the hair.” 

Now, I am not saying but what I knew all this 
before, but it was interesting to hear “ her ” tell it 
and I am sure on her next trip our tall, thin, wor¬ 
ried friend will not use half or all the towels, for 
she will know that frequent washings ruin the com¬ 
plexion. Neither will she nibble continually from a 
box of candy making her thirsty “ all the time.” 

Oh, yes, our expert traveler had a small thermos 
bottle of lemon juice which she added to her glass 
of ice water and enjoyed at any time of the day or 


20 



Care of Skin and Complexion 


night, a refreshing and healthful beverage. Orange 
or lime juice make delicious thirst quenchers. 

Hints to Gardeners 

Getting next to Mother Nature is really a pana¬ 
cea for many ills, for, just as children love to play 
in the sand, so their mothers, older grown, love 
to dig in nice black dirt. And if any of you have 
ever been lucky enough to visit the gulf coast, I 
am sure you have returned with one or more of 
those fascinating sunbonnets, for sale in the allur¬ 
ing shops along the shore. They are the very best 
sun protectors, keeping the peachiest of creamy com¬ 
plexions free from tan and sunburn. 

By the way, the wind tans the skin almost as 
much as the rays of the sun and if you read back 
into the days of our grandmothers and happen to 
have any Godey’s Ladies’ Books for reference, you 
will find “ my lady fair ” (they were all fair) ar¬ 
rayed in a white barege veil when she went out to 
clip her roses. Lacking a sunbonnet or a veil, a 
large straw hat tied down under the chin will be a 
great protection and very up-to-date “ gardenesses ” 
have a huge umbrella with a spiked end which they 
place in the ground above the spot where they elect 
to dig. 

Now, if any of you happen to have already ac- 


21 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


quired a coat of tan, here is a remedy to apply at 
once: 

Citric acid, 2 dr. 

Crystallized sulphate of iron, 18 gr. 

Camphor, 2 gr. 

Elderflower water, 3 oz. 

Mix well and shake the bottle before dabbing on 
with a soft cloth or absorbent cotton. 

A garden cushion on which to kneel is a protec¬ 
tion from dampness, and low rubber-soled shoes 
with only a slight heel are the proper footwear. 
But how about protecting the hands? Of course, 
you know I will say u wear rubber gloves,” and I 
know I will be greeted by a chorus of protests that 
you can’t do good work with any kind of gloves on. 
Well, rub in thoroughly a nice, soothing lotion (vase¬ 
line or old-fashioned mutton tallow is excellent) 
and run the fingernails over a cake of soap, filling 
the nails and about the edge of the cuticle with the 
soap so that there is no space for the dirt to work 
in. Then go out and dig to your heart’s content. 
When you come in remove the soap with an orange- 
wood stick, wash the hands well with warm, soapy 
water and a handful of corn meal, rinse in cold wa¬ 
ter, dry on a soft towel and anoint with any good 
hand lotion to prevent chapping. There are some 
corn meal, olive oil and soap preparations that are 
also efficient cleansers. 


22 



Care of Skin and Complexion 


Liver Spots 

Liver spots show up on a dark skin much more 
than when the complexion is fair, and powder does 
not cover them. They are caused by any number of 
conditions and really a doctor should be consulted 
to see just what is the cause. They do not increase 
in size rapidly. In fact, they scarcely ever spread. 
The following lotion may help along with the treat¬ 
ment prescribed by the doctor : 

Boric acid, 2 dr. 

Distilled witch hazel, 2 oz. 

Cologne, 2 oz. 

Mix and apply to the parts affected. 

Oily Skin 

This is what is called seborrhoea, a condition 
that is aggravated by hot or cold weather. It is 
caused by the sebaceous glands discharging too much 
fluid and of a poor quality. Physicians say that 
the cause is an impoverished condition of the blood 
and is an evidence of low vitality. So try to build 
up in every possible way. Exercise in the open air 
is necessary, as is a nourishing diet. Bathe the parts 
affected, using the following: 

Boric acid, 2 dr. 

Orange flower water, 2 oz. 

Rose water, 2 oz. 

Shake well before using. 

23 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


or another lotion may be used: 

Boric acid, Y* dr. 

Alcohol, Y, oz. 

Rose water, 5^2 oz. 

Here is a deliciously comforting aromatic vine¬ 
gar, both for sponging the body and for use under 
the arms for excessive perspiration: 

Glacial acetic acid, 4 oz. 

Oil of lavender, 1 oz. 

Oil of rosemary, 54 dr. 

Oil of cloves, J4 dr. 

Camphor, 54 oz. 

Mix. The powdered camphor is first dissolved 
in the acetic acid, the essential oils are then added; 
the mixture is set aside for several days, is frequently 
shaken during that time and filtered through new ab¬ 
sorbent cotton. 

For a Rough Skin and Freckles 

Be sure to have the face thoroughly cleansed be¬ 
fore gently rubbing in the cream at night. Sum¬ 
mer freckles are much easier to combat than the 
variety that stays on through the cold weather; how¬ 
ever, here is a formula that is very helpful: 

Horseradish root, one half ounce; half pint of 
boiling water, one dram of borax. Shake well be¬ 
fore applying. Any cucumber lotion is exceedingly 
grateful to a skin that is rough and is at the same 
time a mild bleach. 


24 




Care of Skin and Complexion 


ALMOND COLD CREAM 

Spermaceti, 2 av. oz. 

White wax, 2 av. oz. 

Sweet almond oil, 14 fl. oz, 

Filtered water, 7 fl. oz. 

Powdered borax, 60 gr. 

Coumarin, y 2 gr. 

Oil of rose, 12 drops. 

Oil of bitter almond, 6 drops, 

Tincture of ambergris, 5 drops. 

Melt spermaceti and wax; when fluid, add sweet 
almond oil and coumarin. Dissolve borax in water 
and add to the mixture, putting in ambergris and 
perfume oils last. 

or another simpler recipe is as follows: 

2 dr. borax. 

1 oz. horseradish root. 

Mix these in one pint of distilled, boiling water. 

When cold apply night and morning. 

Simple home remedies that if used faithfully are 
bound to give results are lemon juice and glycerine, 
lemon juice and salt, peroxide and horseradish wa¬ 
ter, sour milk or buttermilk. Bathe the skin first 
with tepid water, apply the bleach, leave on all 
night, in the morning wash and rub in gently a little 
cold cream, wipe off with a soft cloth and dust lightly 
with a pure powder. Some skins are too delicate 
to bear lemon and salt, however. Try to keep out 
of the direct rays of the sun. In the case of freckles, 
an ounce of prevention is worth the proverbial 


25 



‘‘Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


pound of cure. A veil, a broad-brimmed hat, or a 
parasol used determinedly with the first spring winds 
will help to keep off these troublesome pests. 

To Make Rosy Cheeks 

There is no soap manufactured that is warranted 
to make rosy cheeks. Mother Nature attends to 
that, and it’s up to you to help her by taking plenty 
of sleep every night and by having regular hours 
for exercise every single day of your life. Then 
you must be careful of your diet. Lunches of pickles 
and chocolate eclairs do not make good complexions. 
For weeks now I have been watching young girls at 
noon time. Invariably the order is a cup of cof¬ 
fee, a sandwich elaborately garnished with pickle, 
a chocolate eclair or a French pastry. How often 
I have wished I might change the order to a bowl 
of soup, a toasted cheese or tomato sandwich and a 
fruit salad for dessert or a cup of chocolate and 
graham wafers. 

FACE CREAM 

Spermaceti, 2 av. oz. 

White wax, 2 av. oz. 

Sweet almond oil, 10 fl. oz. 

Stronger rose water, 3 fl. oz. 

Borax, powdered, 40 grains. 

Melt wax and spermaceti, cool to moderate heat 
and add oil. Place in a warm bowl and add rose 
water in which the borax has been dissolved and stir 
briskly. 


26 



Care of Skin and Complexion 


For Blackheads 

It takes a long time to see any marked change 
in the pores, but both witch hazel and alcohol are 
astringents and will do the work. Powder must be 
carefully washed off every night; the remedies below 
are efficacious. 

For Large Pores and Blackheads 

Wash the face thoroughly with the suds of a good 
toilet soap and warm water. You may have to 
press out a few of the worst blackheads with your 
fingertips. Then rinse the face thoroughly with 
plain warm water and a dash of cold water, which 
will help close the pores. This should be done in 
the morning. 

At night instead of using the cold water use this 
astringent water and leave it on the face over night: 

Cucumber juice, 3 fl. oz. 

Cologne water, 2 fl. oz. 

Tincture of benzoin, 1 fl. oz. 

Elder flower water to make 16 fl. oz. 

If the case is rather bad, apply the wash once or 
twice during the day. Do not use face creams, as 
with large pores the cream works its way in and 
helps make the pores larger, but put your powder 
on over the wash. 


27 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


Coarse Skin 

Perhaps you have not taken regular care of your 
complexion. Try using a face brush every night. 
The texture of skin should grow finer as the pores 
gradually close and a mild astringent, like witch 
hazel or alcohol, slightly diluted and dabbed on both 
night and morning will help. 

Pimples 

Keep your face perfectly cleansed by using a pure 
soap with warm water, then a dash of cold water. 
Pat dry and dabble on witch hazel or alcohol, as 
these are astringents and will help to close the pores. 
Be careful of your diet; avoid greasy foods and 
candy. Use cold cream at night and wash off in the 
morning and dust lightly with a pure unadulterated 
powder. Your skin should improve if you are in 
good health. If pimples continue, see a doctor and 
abide by his advice. 

To Put on Weight 

Eat plenty of fat-making foods, bananas, cream 
soups, cocoa. Pork is a fat maker. Salads with 
mayonnaise, sweets with meals, not between times. 
Sleep late as possible in the morning and take an 
afternoon nap. 


28 




Facial Massage 


Care of Skin and Complexion 


Fig. i — For “ cross-patch ” lines balance the thumbs 
on the forehead and use the second fingers, making a 
firm, even movement, alternating with the fingers. 

Fig. 2 — A straight up-and-down movement on the 
forehead is good for removing horizontal lines. A 
firm, smooth motion moving the tissues stimulates 
them. 


NON-HAIR GROWING FACE CREAM 


The story of how wrinkles may be smoothed 
away by regular, persistent treatment is told in the 
illustrations shown below. Clean the face with a 


Spermaceti, 2 av. oz. 

White wax, 2 av. oz. 

Sweet almond oil, 10 fl. oz. 

Stronger rose water, 3 fl. oz. 

Borax, powdered, 40 gr. 

Melt wax and spermaceti, cool to moderate heat 
and add oil. Place in a warm bowl and add rose wa¬ 
ter, in which the borax has been dissolved, and stir 
briskly. 


29 





“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


good cold cream, wipe off all that is easily remov¬ 
able with a soft cloth, then dip the fingertips into 
the cream and massage gently, using the cushions 
on the inside of the fingertips and work slowly, 
smoothly and never press hard or let the nails rub 
the skin. A few minutes given to massage each 



Fig* 3 — “Crow’s feet” respond to regular massage, 
making the upward movement heavy, but firm enough 
to move the tissues easily, and, in a rotary motion, 
the downward motion light, but firm. Use only the 
cushions of the fingertips. 

Fig. 4 — A very light rotary movement under the 
eyes gives much stimulation. Do not press heavily, as 
this may easily irritate the eye. 

Fig. 5 — Lines at the corner of the mouth may easily 
be lessened by a firm rotary movement, going up 
heavy, as the arrow indicates, and down light, repeat¬ 
ing until the circulation is free. This also helps to lift 
the corners of the mouth. By using the fingers on one 
hand (second and third) and spreading them the sec¬ 
ond finger of the other hand can easily do the mas¬ 
saging. 


30 






Care of Skin and Complexion 


night will do wonders to keep the flesh firm and 
without wrinkles or will reduce the wrinkles already 
accumulated. But the time given to treatment must 
be regular f and not done overtime one night and 
neglected the next. 



Fig. 6 — Court-plaster beauty patches for bed-time 
wear. These may be cut as shown in chart and ap¬ 
plied to wrinkle centers, as corners of the mouth, cor¬ 
ners of the eyes, and to the heavy lines that often form 
between the eyes. These prevent the wrinkles falling 
into their old lines during sleep. 

Fig. 7 — Creams are always applied in a movement 
as up and out which the face chart illustrates, the 
hands coming olf about the temples and again begin¬ 
ning on the jawbone. This movement is applied firmly, 
moving the tissues easily. It also lifts the muscles 
of the lower cheek and jaw, giving to them direct 
stimulation. 

Fig. 8 — Only a straight up-and-down movement on 
the neck is used. Make the movement heavy (except 
over the windpipe), but keep it firm, letting the cush¬ 
ions of the fingers on each hand do the work following 
each other down, as arrows indicate. 

3i 







“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


Many women who are ambitious for a smooth, 
youthful skin begin massaging with enthusiasm, but 
are irregular in the treatment after it has been tried 
a few times. As a result they lose faith in its effi¬ 
cacy and soon surrender to the wrinkles, when they 
might have conquered them. 

Skin and Sunburn 

Anoint the burned places with any sweet oil 
(olive or almond), leave it on over night and put 
on a layer of absorbent cotton to keep out the air; 
then wipe off with a damp, hot cloth. Oiling the 
parts at night, or in the day time if you can remain 
indoors, will be helpful, and powdering with pulver¬ 
ized starch is cooling. Stearate of zinc is a good 
powder to use when you cannot use the oil or have 
to be at work. 

Some skins are much more sensitive than others. 
One person will burn, one will tan, and the other 
will do neither but freckle, and to some these pests 
come at the slightest exposure to the weather. It 
is possible usually to wear a broad-brimmed hat; 
if not, a chiffon veil may be used or a sunshade. If 
none of these are practical, powder lightly with 
stearate of zinc, then apply a dusting over with the 
powder one is in the habit of using. This is sooth¬ 
ing and protects the skin. 


33 



Care of Skin and Complexion 


When going on a day’s outing, it is well to mas¬ 
sage a simple cold cream into the face, neck, arms 
and even on the hands if gloves are not worn, then 
wipe off with a soft cloth and apply an extra coat¬ 
ing of powder. 

If you have not used the ounce of prevention, 
and come home with a bad case of sunburn, do not 
make the mistake of rushing into a bath of cold 
water. In fact, permit no water to touch the sore 
spots, but apply a mixture of equal parts of olive 
and linseed oil and lime water. If this is not at 
hand, the ever-cooling stearate of zinc, before men¬ 
tioned, is a grateful application. 

For freckles and tan, the face and hands may be 
first bathed in warm water and then any simple 
remedy like a lotion of peroxide and horseradish 
water, of sour milk or buttermilk or plain lemon 
juice may be applied and left to dry on over night. 
Rinse off in the morning and apply cold cream. 

When going on a day’s outing, remember that 
dresses cut low, or even those with embroidery or 
net yokes, will permit the sun to burn through in a 
short time, as many a girl knows to her sorrow, so 
gauzy fabrics should be tabooed. 

One devotee of Sir Izaak Walton wears old kid 
gloves from which she cuts the tips of the fingers, 
so her hands are in a measure protected, but she can 


33 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


still bait her hook with the wriggling angle-worm 
with expeditious skill. There are now so many ad¬ 
justable garden umbrellas and sunshades over out¬ 
door swings and hammocks that sunburn even when 
weeding the garden may be avoided, as these um¬ 
brellas have spiked ends to stick in the ground and 
are easily moved. 

Gardening is certainly an art and the shops have 
seen to it that my lady may have almost all the 
comforts of her boudoir outdoors. How virtuous 
most women feel over the hours they spend in the 
ever-alluring out-of-doors. 

. \ 

Motoring and Exercising 

And now for a brief word to the motorist, who 
must realize before she starts on any extended trip 
that even if she is not out in the sun that a wind on 
a cloudy day will tan and dry the skin. So don’t 
forget to wear a veil (one of amber hue is best). 
If a veil is too unbearably warm, don’t forget to 
massage the face, neck and uncovered arms gently 
with a good face cream or even any kind of sweet 
oil. Put a coating of stearate of zinc over the ex¬ 
posed skin and then powder heavily over that if you 
sunburn easily and this will prevent much suffering 
when no veil protects. 

In midsummer is a time to cut off a bit on the 


34 



Care of Skin and Complexion 


food supply; avoid meat more than once a day 
(once a week is better). Indulge in much water, 
much fruit, and in many vegetables. Nothing will 
cause an eruption of pimples, which are so unsightly, 
quicker than overeating; don’t be tempted by allur¬ 
ing boxes of candy, especially chocolate creams, 
and when you do eat candy follow by copious drinks 
of water. A physician told me this and said many 
of the ills induced by too much sweet would be less¬ 
ened thereby. 

“ It’s simply too warm to exercise,” said a lan¬ 
guid young woman, when told the only sure way to 
keep her figure in trim was daily exercise. If you 
feel that way about it, my dear, cut your rations 
down to the lowest terms, especially the ice cream 
sodas; take a Turkish bath once a week and have 
a masseuse to rub off superfluous fat. 

Some skins simply cannot stand midsummer suns, 
especially just after stepping from the water, and 
for those who have tried, and failed, to bear sun¬ 
burn like their more fortunate friends, the only pos¬ 
sible course is one of common sense care and avoid¬ 
ance of unnecessary exposure. After the swim, sit 
in the shade or get into a wrap and hat or under 
the protection of an umbrella, and when in your 
dressing room put on a liberal sprinkling of talcum, 
stearate of zinc or other mild powder that will help 


35 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


heal the burn. Before going on a tramp put on 
the powder thick enough for a protection even if 
it does show a bit. Returning home, use cold cream 
as a cleanser instead of water. 

It’s extreme fatigue that harms, so in intense heat 
use common sense. Try not to get overtired. Short 
walks, much rest, light diet and, above all, plenty 
of relaxation should take us all through the sum¬ 
mer. I realize I am writing for busy people, also 
that most of us have just about so much to do, rain 
or shine, summer or winter, but the attitude with 
which we receive the weather as it comes helps. 
“As a man thinketh in his heart so is he,” so you see 
it is good policy to keep our bodies fit as possible, 
in order that we may present smiling faces even if 
the thermometer soars heavenward. Just let me 
add as a last word, if you must buy new shoes now, 
get a half or a whole size larger than your wont. 
Don’t forget this. 

One of the facts I have noticed is that being out 
in intense heat causes one unconsciously to squint 
eyes and wrinkle the forehead; just watch for your¬ 
self and see how nearly every other person you 
meet on the sunny side of the street is wearing a 
decided and most unbecoming scowl. Of course a 
broad-brimmed hat or a sunshade obviates this to 
a certain degree. None of us likes premature 
36 



Care of Skin and Complexion 


wrinkles, which are sure to result before the end of 
the season, so it might be well if these tiny lines 
have appeared, to beat the white of an egg (not 
very stiff) and apply to the creases. Leave on until 
dry, wipe off with warm water (not hot) and then 
bathe the face with icy cold water for at least three 
or four minutes. To obtain the full benefit of this 
simple treatment it is well to lie down and relax 
completely. 

Spring Hint 

Winter may be hard on the complexion, but the 
winds of March often create more havoc than win¬ 
ter itself. Besides, as spring approaches, most of 
us take stock of our appearance as well as of our 
clothes and try to get into the best condition for the 
coming season. 

To Cleanse the Face Properly 

Here is the simple process: Get a good cleansing 
cream (every reliable druggist has one), rub it in 
gently but firmly over the face and neck, applying 
it with a rotary motion of the fingertips all around 
the back of the neck and ears; now wipe it off with 
a bit of cotton or a soft cloth; then have a luke¬ 
warm, sudsy water, and wash thoroughly; then rinse 
repeatedly in cold water. In summertime when ice 


37 




“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


is handy it is grateful to wrap a piece in a cloth 
and iron over the face. The result will be a de¬ 
lightfully fresh feeling, and the girl who wishes rosy 
cheeks will have achieved them. 

Some “Don’ts” 

The skin, besides being a protective envelope for 
the parts underneath it, is far more, for when the 
offices of the skin function perfectly it gives health 
and tone to the entire body. The whole system is 
so closely allied and the skin is very susceptible to 
internal trouble as well as being liable to injuries 
from the exterior, so it is more than plain that the 
utmost care must be given to it. It must be cleansed 
often and thoroughly and there must be saneness in 
diet, plenty of well-directed exercise and last but 
not least — no undue worrying. Some clever writer 
says “no petty worrying.” Who would have 
thought that nagging and worrying affected the skin? 
But they do. 

So we see that strict rules of hygiene must be 
observed, in summer the stomach suffers much from 
overdoses of iced drinks, iced foods and irregular 
eating. Moderation in all things should be laid 
down and enforced. Salt water bathing is beneficial 
to all those who are in good health, and the inland 
lakes are a source of much pleasurable enjoyment, 
38 



Care of Skin and Complexion 


if used with discretion. Twenty or thirty minutes 
is sufficient time to remain in the water, a vigorous 
rub down should bring a glowing feeling of exhila¬ 
ration; if it is not forthcoming and one feels languid 
and depressed, stop the baths. 

Do not take any kind of a bath unless at least an 
hour (better three) has elapsed after eating; this 
“Don’t” should be impressed upon children, boys 
especially, who are apt to go in swimming when¬ 
ever fancy dictates if at a summer resort with water 
handy. 

I have said very little about soap, for every skin 
is a law unto itself and it is best to keep on trying 
until a brand is found that suits; some skins require 
a mild, bland make and others take a stronger va¬ 
riety. A trained nurse w T ho lived in my home when 
the children were small had the peachiest pink and 
white skin and wonderful golden brown hair. All 
she ever used on skin or tresses was the soap that 
floats (Ivory) ; she said she always could get it and 
found it satisfactory, though for the babies nothing 
but the purest of imported Castile would satisfy her. 

Very dry skins take an olive oil soap and there 
are some ingredients like bran, oatmeal, almond 
meal, cucumber juice and glycerine incorporated in¬ 
to cleansing powders and soap, that are beneficial. 

Please all remember these don’ts: eat when over- 


39 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


heated or overtired; expose the hair to the sun for 
long periods of time after it has been wet from sea 
bathing; take ice cream sodas more than once a day; 
drink ice water with meals; forget to keep the skin 
clean and protected by cold cream and powder when 
sunburn is liable. With these precautions our com¬ 
plexions should come through the summer unim¬ 
paired. 

Sunburn 

How many of our readers know that so-called 
sunburn is not caused by the sunlight and not ac¬ 
tually from the heat radiated by the sun? The best 
skin specialist in one of our largest cities explains 
that the pain suffered is not really a burn, but, to 
quote him, “is an irritation arising from the over- 
stimulation of the cells of the skin by the actinic or 
chemically active rays of the sun.” 

He also stated that the coating of tan that fol¬ 
lows sunburn is because an unusually large quantity 
of pigment has been deposited in the cells as a pro¬ 
tective measure that Mother Nature provides. In 
the dark-skinned races they have so much pigment 
that they scarcely ever suffer from sunburn. 

Now for the treatment of this painful condition. 
If the surface of the skin has not been broken (and 
I have seen cruelly burned spots on tender faces 


40 



Care of Skin and Complexion 


and necks), a grateful application is a tablespoon 
of denatured alcohol (not wood) to a pint of cold 
water. Lay soft cloths wet with this on the affected 
spots. Replace these cool packs as often as they get 
the least bit warm, which is very quickly. 

Dusting off with a pure talcum or rice powder is 
effective and should follow after the water applica¬ 
tions have been discontinued; the latter to be benefi¬ 
cial should continue for twenty minutes or a half 
hour at a time. Dry the parts with a soft towel (of 
linen, if possible). At night grease the skin with 
a pure cold cream; even sour cream out of the bot¬ 
tle is a grateful lotion. 

Skin Nutrition 

In the first place nutrition of the skin is abso¬ 
lutely essential, and that come9 from arterial blood’ 
and a good circulation. To obtain the clear, radi¬ 
ant bloom so desired by us all there must be ade¬ 
quate sleep, plenty of fresh air, especially at night; 
a normal amount of exercise, a sane diet and last, 
but by no means least, perfect cleanliness. No out¬ 
ward applications will produce a peaches and cream 
effect; in fact, a skin specialist says the “preserva¬ 
tion of the freshness and attractiveness of the skin 
is dependent upon proper care and sound health.” 
I wish to lay particular stress upon this, the ounce 


41 



Beauty Talks 


“Dame Curtsey’s” 

of prevention is many times worth the pound of cure. 
How often I have heard young people say “they 
wanted to acquire a good coat of tan,” little dream¬ 
ing that it is very ruinous to a fine complexion; to 
prove it, just look at a farmer or a seafaring man 
and regard the tough, leathery condition of the face 
and you will be convinced that the direct rays of the 
sun are distinctly harmful. Another fact that shows 
how the elements of light and heat affect the skin is 
to notice the hands and face of an elderly person, 
and see the contrast with the arms and other parts 
of the body that have not been exposed to the ele¬ 
ments and which have retained the softness and 
fresh qualities of youth. 


42 



CHAPTER IV 
HAIR AND SHAMPOOING 


I T IS a fact observed by long experience in 
“beauty talks” that there are very few in¬ 
quiries during the summer months about fall¬ 
ing hair, dandruff and the many ills that hair is heir 
to. This is directly due to the outdoor life that 
our tresses enjoy, freedom from heavy and close fit¬ 
ting hats giving the much-needed air and sun, both 
essentials to a healthful condition. 

Good circulation is necessary to keep hair grow¬ 
ing and glossy, and in summer most folks relax after 
exercising, especially after swimming, for the head 
usually gets a ducking, the hair must be loosened 
to dry, the scalp receives a brisk rubbing and the 
entire body takes an enforced rest. After tennis, 
golf, or a long hike there must be a bath and a re¬ 
dressing of one’s tresses, and it soon becomes a 
habit to add a few minutes of scalp massage before 
arranging the coiffure for the rest of the day. All 
this tends to keep the hair healthy, as the root fol¬ 
licles respond very quickly to the vacation regime. 

What is the cause of gray hair in young people? 
It is a query that may have many answers. One is 
that early turning of the hair is sometimes a family 


43 


4 ‘Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


characteristic going back for generations, and if this 
is the case there is no escape except by way of the 
dye pot, and that means slavery, for nothing is more 
of a snare than constant tinting of new grown gray 
or white hair. It means constant recoloring as the 
hair grows out, and it is far better to accept the 
situation gracefully, remembering that white locks 
and a young face are a very striking and distin¬ 
guished combination. To those of you who are now 
young I must say that youth is the time to preserve 
your glory crowns. Faithful brushing each night to 
remove all dust, split ends cut at least once or twice 
a year, shampoos with every trace of soap removed 
by many rinsings and all the air and sunlight pos¬ 
sible will help. When I say “ sunlight ” so often I 
do not mean to infer hours in a broiling sun, for 
that fades and dries the hair, but just enough to act 
as a tonic. Especially is sunshine good for drying 
after a shampoo. 

Of course, there are those who are willing to take 
all the necessary trouble that dyeing the hair entails, 
and that is up to them to make a good and thorough 
job of it. It means plenty of time, for it is a slow 
process to perform alone. 

Hair nets (be sure to get those of fine quality of 
human hair) are a boon to the straight and curly 
heads. If straight hair is given by Mother Nature, 


44 



Hair and Shampooing 


then the net keeps the head well tailored; if curly, 
unruly locks are held in leash. There are several 
ways of adjusting a net properly; and there are 
many who like the fringe style and just as many who 
demand the cap variety. Nets are a boon to trav¬ 
elers on land or sea and indispensable to the motor¬ 
ist. A noted writer gives these directions for a 
fringe net, quite contrary to the way I have always 
done mine, so I pass them on to you, as the result 
is all that it should be: 

“ Put the wide part of the net to the back, instead 
of across the front of the hair, and let it lightly 
draw the hair upward when you fasten the ends 
across the top, instead of pulling the whole coiffure 
downward and flattening it out as is done when it is 
put on the other way. Then when you take off your 
hat, all that is necessary is to fluff up the hair over 
the ears a little and you have a soft, becoming 
coiffure.” 

“Crown of Glory” 

To keep our hair, which the Good Book says is 
our crown of glory, up to the glory point is no 
small job and if eternal vigilance is the price of lib¬ 
erty, keeping eternally at it is the price of a well- 
groomed coiffure. As in all things pertaining to the 
beauty make-up, one’s own individual self must 


45 



“Dame Curtsey’s^ Beauty Talks 


decide just how often a shampoo is necessary. Once 
every two weeks is a good general rule and once a 
week if the hair or scalp is too oily. Now just a 
word as to dry shampoos. Doesn’t it stand to rea¬ 
son if the scalp is soiled, the hair oily, and in con¬ 
sequence stringy, that a coarse cornmeal, so often 
recommended, may absorb some of the oil? Yet 
it cannot possibly cleanse like a thorough sousing 
in a good, pure, soapy suds with a multiplicity of 
rinsings and, if possible, a drying in the sun. 

Now, we are going to be nothing if not practical 
in this chapter. The remedies recommended are 
old and tried ones, harmless and, if used carefully, 
efficacious. Do not look for prescriptions such as 
you would expect from a graduate physician for we 
are not dealing with bodily ills but beauty ones, 
though I admit that to be beautiful we must be in 
good physical trim. 

Right here is a fitting time to publish the. recipe 
for a hair tonic which comes from a really, truly 
doctor of the old school. If this tonic is rubbed into 
the scalp morning and night it should arrest the fall 
of tresses, which is so often the result of illness: 

Tincture of cantharides, 2 dr. 

Tincture of capsicum, 2 dr. 

Quinine sulphate, 10 gr. 

Cologne, 1 oz. 

Sufficient alcohol to make eight ounces. 

46 



Hair and Shampooing 


Hair falls more readily from some scalps than 
others so a vigorous brushing night and morning is 
not good for every one. Five or six minutes even 
brushing with a perfectly clean brush, then a soft 
putting away for the night will be all that is neces¬ 
sary. By this, I mean braid the hair very loosely 
and let the ends fly. Never confine the hair with 
tight rubber bands or braid tightly. A girl I once 
knew actually had hair that came below her knees 
(like the heroines in the stories we read in our 
youth) and to keep the braid from roughing at 
night she slipped it into an umbrella sheath, fas¬ 
tened it securely with a shell barette, and I can 
remember yet the glossy sheen when her coronet 
braids were wound around her head. To me that 
was the first real use I had ever seen made of an 
umbrella cover. 

It is a good thing to rest one’s hair as much as 
possible. By this, I mean let it remain loose and 
unconfined, pinless and netless, for hairpins are 
often very trying to a tender scalp. Many persons 
who had the influenza made rather speedy recover¬ 
ies excepting only their hair, and I have seen some 
sorry wrecks. In many cases where bobbed hair 
was demanded by specialists it was to avoid hairpins 
against the tender scalp. 

It is perfectly natural to have a slight fall of 


47 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


hair at all seasons, as the life of a strand is only 
a certain period and when it dies is replaced by 
another. This is normal and what we want to see 
is that it does not become subnormal. 

Many women find that their hair gets oilier in 
summer than in winter, and a more frequent sham¬ 
poo, keeping the pores clear and unclogged, will do 
much to keep one feeling cooler and fresher in sum¬ 
mer. While every two or three weeks may be often 
enough in winter, many women take a weekly sham¬ 
poo in summer. But if there is little oil, better give 
thorough brushings and shake the hair out in the 
fresh air rather than wet it too often. 

Curling the Tresses 

The daily use of an electric curling iron is ruin¬ 
ous to fine hair. Kid curlers are the least harmful, 
and there are some excellent metal ones. While 
your hair is in the process of restoration after 
typhoid, be content to use the heated iron only 
for special occasions. Before shampooing the hair, 
massage the scalp with any good oil, like almond, 
olive or even vaseline. Use only Castile soap, rinse 
many times, massage the head with the fingertips 
nightly to induce circulation, and I think as you 
grow stronger your hair will assume normal condi¬ 
tions. Though it may not be curly, I think it will 

48 



Hair and Shampooing 


if you brush it and try to train it into waves after 
the shampoo and let the electric curler alone. 

Circulation in Scalp 

Madame Grundy proclaims that heads must be 
covered for bridge parties, for luncheons, for club 
meetings, etc., and heads of offices often sit at their 
desks with hats on, knowing that they will flit in and 
out; also knowing that hats are almost always 
becoming. 

In fact, one young woman, who holds a respon¬ 
sible position as a consultant for a large firm, told 
me that she simply could not afford the time nor 
the price for a marcel or even an ordinary hairdress, 
so has adopted a very chic little hat, which is worn 
most all day. I am sorry, but I fear she will pay 
the penalty, which, however, may not be any worse 
than the result of constant marceling. It does mean, 
however, that she must give extra time to scalp mas¬ 
sage, and she must take every occasion to let her 
hair hang free from confining pins. Whether we 
realize it or not, a tight hatband will stop the cir¬ 
culation and falling hair is a certain condition that 
will follow. Personally I believe that hair should 
be brushed until the scalp glows and the tresses feel 
and look like satin. Thus all grime and dust is 
removed before the pores on the scalp have a chance 


49 



4t Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


to become clogged and the natural oil is distributed 
as it should be. 

Hair needs the air and sun, ventilation we may 
say, and this is the reason why baldness is so much 
more prevalent with men than with the gentler sex. 
The close-fitting derby hats worn by so many men 
are literally hair killers. Indeed, any close-fitting 
felt hat worn continuously is injurious. Even straw 
hats bind the forehead, but they admit more air 
than the closely-woven felts and beavers which men 
delight in. 

Nothing so rests the hair and scalp as a good 
massage with the fingertips, a thorough brushing, 
then let the tresses hang unconfined for as long a 
time as possible. A loose braid may be more com¬ 
fortable at night, with the ends untied. 

A noted author says after a strenuous day noth¬ 
ing rests her so quickly as taking every hairpin out, 
the hair net off and letting her head relax in this 
way; she declares that a new lease on life comes 
and she can write for a couple of hours perfectly 
refreshed. Try it, some of you brain workers. A 
professional music teacher voiced the same idea, 
and I heard her say to one of the young teachers 
in her studio: “The first thing you do when you 
come in in the morning is to take off your hat, no 
matter if you have only a couple of lessons to give; 


50 



Hair and Shampooing 


it rests you more than anything else. The second 
thing is, be sure to have plenty of ventilation.” 

Air, sun and even rain are all beauty agents, but 
all in moderation. Bathing caps must be worn to 
keep the hair from being soaked and from the di¬ 
rect rays of the sun, which will fade and burn the 
locks. Salt water should be well rinsed out, and the 
hair dried out of the sun. If the hair persistently 
falls out, there must be some reason for it, and no 
external applications will wholly relieve the trouble, 
as the general health must be built up; the diet must 
be carefully regulated under the advice of a reliable 
physician. 

I remember a young woman who had a severe 
illness and her hair became dry and brittle. She 
patiently nursed it back to its pristine glory, and one 
thing that impressed me was her saying that the 
scalp specialist to whom she went told her to eat 
bacon every morning to help provide oil for the 
scalp. 

Just a word to those of you whose tresses may be 
turning gray: It may be a comfort to know that the 
most famous beauties at one of the fashionable re¬ 
sorts this season have not gray, but white, hair. 
I think it’s a crime to dye hair. I believe Mother 
Nature knows what is best. If we have passed a 
certain age (we won’t say what) we naturally ex- 


51 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


pect gray locks; if we have not and the change 
comes, let me assure you that white hair is most 
rejuvenating as well as beautifying. 

Hair-dressing 

If you think hair and hair-dressing constitute a 
small part in the make-up of either the feminine 
or masculine costume effect just do what a hostess 
did who is noted for unusual parties. She asked 
about twenty guests to dinner and requested them 
to do their hair in a style radically different from 
their custom. Behold the result—even one’s next- 
door neighbor was scarcely recognizable. The men 
who were lacking in hair where it ought to grow 
wore wigs; others parted their hair in the middle, 
some wore pompadours and others slicked their hair 
back with bergamot, and still others wore the quaint 
perukes of colonial days. So much for the men — 
the women had parted tresses a la Martha Wash¬ 
ington and Mrs. Abraham Lincoln, and others wore 
wigs piled mountain high with puffs and‘feathers. 
Other than the coiffure the guests were in the custo¬ 
mary evening dress. 

In cold weather those whom Nature has endowed 
with naturally curly locks complain that all the kink 
disappears and their hair is as straight as the pro¬ 
verbial “string.” This is true unless the hair is 


53 



Hair and Shampooing 


naturally very curly. However, with a little judi¬ 
cious coaxing each night by wetting very lightly with 
a comb and pinning waves or curls gently into place 
much of the natural wave may be preserved. Of 
course, this takes time, but that is one lesson I have 
to preach over and over again. 

Beautifying is a long, slow process, the daily 
results often quite indiscernible, but the result of 
faithful work is sure. This reminds me that a 
great pianist said that if he omitted his daily prac¬ 
tice one day, he knew it; if he omitted it the second 
day, his friends knew it; and if he was a slacker the 
third day, the public knew it. So even on ship¬ 
board or in traveling, regular practice he must have. 
This is just a homely illustration that we all may 
apply to ourselves. Good health with a free cir¬ 
culation of the blood is conducive to a healthful 
growth of hair, but even with this if the scalp is 
allowed to grow tight the delicate hair follicles will 
be stunted and only a scanty growth of hair re¬ 
main. So a gentle massage of the scalp with the 
fingertips used in a rotary motion all over the head, 
behind the ears and along the neck is just as neces¬ 
sary as the daily forty strokes with a perfectly clean 
hair brush. 

In cold weather the hair is often excessively dry 
so at night massage with a few drops of oil on the 


53 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


tips of fingers (olive oil, vaseline or any sweet oil 
will do), but if the natural oil is too abundant dip 
the fingers in any good toilet water or half and half 
grain alcohol and water instead of using an oil 
massage. 

One would hardly think that the food we eat has 
a direct bearing on the hair and scalp, though I 
never eat bacon but I remember the counsel of a 
scalp specialist who saved my sadly depleted tresses 
for me after typhoid fever when every one else said 
there was no hope for restoration without a shaven 
and shorn pate. 

She said, “Every week people should eat a few 
slices of broiled bacon for the sake of their hair,” 
anyhow, by a long, slow T process of massage, elec¬ 
tric vibrator treatments, enough sleep, and a care¬ 
ful diet, including the necessary supply of bacon, 
my hair did come back to life and it was never cut. 

How often should hair be shampooed? That is 
a question frequently asked and the reply is: At 
least once a month, and if situated in the midst of 
dirt, dust and all the other detriments to beauty, as 
is the case with many who are employed in town 
offices, a shampoo is necessary every two weeks. 
As in all beauty hints, the rules are flexible, for 
each individual is a law unto himself and here is a 
recipe for a universally successful shampoo mixture : 

54 



Hair and Shampooing 


Shave a tablespoonful of good soap, put in a 
quart of cold water, and when it comes to a boil it 
is ready for use. Lather the hair well, hot water 
for the rinsings, except the last, which may be tepid 
or cold. 

The night before the shampoo, if troubled with 
dandruff, rub some vaseline or olive oil well into the 
scalp. It is natural for the hair to fall out in the 
fall and spring. Wavy hair is a gift of nature, but 
waves may be put in by doing the hair up on large 
wire hairpins or curlers right after the shampoo. 

Kid : curlers are as harmless as any and there are 
some devices in metal that give a very excellent 
“natural” marcel. Be careful not to roll either 
device too close to the scalp, just remember not to 
be conscious of any direct pull or the scalp will be 
tortured beyond endurance. 

Dandruff 

Now for the excessive dandruff of which so 
many complain. Doesn’t it stand to reason that 
our hair catches the dust and grime the same as our 
bodies? Who would think of taking only a weekly 
tub, so let us use a little common sense and wash 
the scalp and hair thoroughly at least once a week 
in hot weather. Dandruff is an accumulation of 
dried oil, dried scarf skin which gathers, clogs the 


55 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


pores of the skin and comes off in annoying flakes. 
Perhaps when the hair is naturally dry, a longer 
time may be allowed between washings, but there 
must be a careful and regular massage of the scalp 
and everybody may learn to do this, using the finger¬ 
tips in a rotary motion until the scalp glows with 
warmth. This promotes a free circulation of the 
blood. Now, one more suggestion. It is a known 
fact that worry, indigestion, especially constipation, 
have effect upon the condition of the scalp very 
quickly, as has also any anemic tendency. So when 
hair is lifeless, dry, and falls out in more than nor¬ 
mal quantity, it is high time to consult a physician 
to discover any organic trouble that may exist and 
not go with wails to the beauty specialist and expect 
her to accomplish miracles and give recipes that are 
expected to act with some magic power. 

While on the subject of what should be woman’s 
crowning glory, let me say that if any false hair is 
worn, keep it as immaculately clean as if it were 
part of the body and not an attachment* put on and 
off at will. Switches should be brushed daily, 
washed and dried in the open air fairly often. This 
need not necessarily be done in the sun, as switches 
fade more readily than growing locks. If an accu¬ 
mulation of dandruff has reached the flaky stage, 
showing that the scalp is caked with it, the scalp 
56 



Hair and Shampooing 


should receive a good soaking with either lanolin, 
olive oil or white vaseline the night before the sham¬ 
poo. 

Most hair troubles come from not keeping the 
scalp perfectly clean. It is hard for a scaly dan¬ 
druff to accumulate on a perfectly clean scalp. A 
generous use of a medium stiff brush helps to re¬ 
move the dust of the day and acts as a tonic to the 
scalp, as does a few minutes’ massage with the 
fingertips. One of the busiest women I know, who 
rejoices in luxuriant locks, says she gives the head 
a massage every morning and every night while in 
bed. She says this has become such a matter of 
habit that she almost does it unconsciously, and her 
hair is very lovely and luxuriant, as in this way she 
has kept the scalp loose and pliable. It takes time 
to be beautiful, but if you are really in earnest about 
it the will finds a way. 

Do you know I am constantly struck with the fact 
that so many beauty ills need not exist? For in¬ 
stance, in most cases, dandruff to an excessive degree 
can be avoided by ceaseless care. Even healthful 
scalps may have a little; but if after every shampoo, 
when the hair is well dried, a tiny bit of vaseline 
(carbolated or plain and of the white variety) is 
rubbed into the scalp there should be almost no 
trouble. 


57 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


Personally, I think no artificial dryer ever leaves 
the hair in as satisfactory a condition as when the 
tresses are rubbed as dry as possible with towels and 
then let the sun and a warm breeze finish the work. 
Of course, this is not always practical, nor is it 
always practical to wash the hair in soft water. If 
any of you have an opportunity while on your vaca¬ 
tion to wash your hair in rain water you will marvel 
at the soft, fluffy result, and even a few times will 
act as a real tonic. 

Ocean bathing is apt to work havoc with the hair 
unless every bit of salt water is well rinsed out. 
Even the most expensive bathing caps will leak, and 
I never saw a good swimmer who didn’t pay the 
penalty by having her hair sticky and streaked after 
a season at the shore unless she labored long and 
unceasingly to counteract the sun and water. 

For Short Hair 

Give your scalp an oil bath the night before you 
shampoo the hair by rubbing any oil like olive or 
a vegetable oil procurable at beauty parlors or drug 
stores for this purpose. Vaseline answers the same 
purpose. Massage into the scalp, wrap the head in 
a towel to protect the pillow-slip. The following 
tonic is excellent, as I personally can vouch, but it 
must be used at least three months faithfully: 

58 



Hair and Shampooing 


Tr. cantharides, 2 dr. 

Tr. capsicum, 2 dr. 

Quinine sulphate, 10 dr. 

Cologne, 1 oz. 

Grain alcohol (not wood alcohol), 8 oz. 

Apply at night and also morning. An old family 
remedy that has proved efficacious. 

For Falling Hair 

Perhaps you are shampooing your hair too often. 
Try doing it only once a month for six months and 
use the tonic given above. Part the hair into strands 
and apply the tonic with a bit of cotton or an old 
toothbrush. Massage the scalp faithfully after¬ 
wards. 

Split Hair Ends 

Trim the hair above the split ends and then give 
your tresses constant attention by brushing, sham¬ 
pooing and keeping the scalp well cleansed. In this 
way a healthful growth will result and the ends 
should not split. 

Hair Dyes and Bleaches 

Henna is useful for reddish or light hair. Sage 
tea and salt will lend a darker tone to gray hair, 
but must be renewed frequently. And if you do in¬ 
dulge in any tinting, remember the hair keeps grow- 


59 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


ing and must be freshly tinted about the roots every 
week or two. Two-thirds peroxide of hydrogen to 
one-third ammonia is an effective bleach. 

Add a little ordinary bluing to the last rinsing 
water when washing white hair and a whiter tint 
will result. 

Turmeric makes one of the most satisfactory dyes 
for producing light shades. All artificial dyes or 
solutions in the end are harmful to the hair and 
scalp. 

Good Harmless Shampoo 

Here is one so simple every one of you can make 
it. Get pure imported Castile soap (it is procurable 
but a bit costly) ; shave a heaping tablespoonful into 
a quart of cold water, bring to a boil. This is suffi¬ 
cient for one using; the whole secret is in manipulat¬ 
ing the soapy suds well through the hair and scalp 
and then rinsing until you’re tired; then do it once 
more just to make sure every trace of soap is re¬ 
moved. Fan the hair dry in the sunshine, if pos¬ 
sible. 

Good Shampoo for Hot Weather 

Even if your hair is very oily you can conquer it 
by persistently shampooing it at least once a week 
during the summer. If you brush it with a perfectly 
clean bristle brush both night and morning, this will 
60 



Hair and Shampooing 


help keep it fluffy. You may use the recipe below 
and I would not advise anything else. Of course, it 
takes time, but we all have to pay the price and 
nothing is more attractive than a neat appearing 
coiffure. I do not admire the large buns over the 
ears and I am glad to tell my readers that fashion 
says they are much smaller, gradually disappearing, 
in fact. 


SEA FOAM SHAMPOO 

Potassium carbonate, i av. oz. 
Borax, i av. oz. 

Distilled water, 32 fl. oz. 

Mix and dissolve. 


Daily Care of the Hair 

If you are in good health, don’t worry if your 
hair comes out considerably in the spring. If the 
root cells are there a new strand will grow very 
soon. It takes time to care properly for the scalp 
and hair. Below is an excellent shampoo mixture 
and the oil will remedy the dry scalp in one or two 
applications. 

The best soap for shampoo is the old-fashioned 
imported Castile. Shave a tablespoonfui, put in a 
quart of cold water and when it comes to a boil it 
is ready for use. Lather the hair well, using hot 

61 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


water, and almost cold for the rinsings. The secret 
of soft hair is to get every bit of soap out. 

The night before the shampoo, rub in some vase¬ 
line or olive oil well into the scalp. Do this once 
or twice a week also, as the oil, combined with 
massage, is helpful. 

Toilet Recipes for Traveling 

To Keep Hair in Curl 

Borax powder, i av. oz. 

Gum arabic, 30 gr. 

Spirits of camphor, 6 fl. dr. 

Warm water, 16 fl. oz. 

Dissolve solids in warm water and wdien cool add 
camphor. Wet hair with mixture, roll on curlers and 
allow to dry thoroughly. When dry, brush out lightly 
and curls will remain. 

Powdering the Hair 

Of course, powdering the hair is drying to the 
scalp, but if you are on the stage and you do not 
like a wig (I know they are horribly expensive), 
brush your hair thoroughly every night, massage a 
bit of white vaseline with the tips of your fingers 
into the scalp and give your head a thorough sham¬ 
pooing once a week. A few weeks won’t do any 
permanent harm. 

62 





Hair and Shampooing 


Styles for Different Faces 

your own face, do your hair in a half a 
dozen ways as try-outs and then stick to the way 
that makes you look the very best.” 

An abnormal style is never in good taste. While 
I have given a tirade against exaggerated rolls over 


AN OLDER FACE DEMANDS A SOFT, GRACEFUL HAIR 
DRESSING (FIGURE AT THE LEFT) 

the ears, a light fluffiness is becoming to almost 
every one, with a tip of the ear showing. This is 
almost necessary to have hats, whether large or 
small, becoming. The question is often asked, 
“Shall I wear my hair high or low?” At present 
63 






“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


the high head-dress is much in vogue and it has 
always been considered the proper thing with full 
evening dress. Here again, one’s best features 
should be accentuated, a long neck takes a low coif- 



A WOMAN WITH A NARROW FACE NEEDS HER HAIR 


BUILT OUT A LITTLE ON THE SIDE (FIGURE AT 
THE LEFT) 

fure beautifully, but flee from it if you have the 
slightest suspicion of a double chin. 

When a very young girl I remember my father 
saying that a certain woman looked like a “peeled 
onion,” the way she did her hair. As I grew older 
and heard her remark that she “ didn’t have time 

64 



Hair and Shampooing 


to pay any attention to style as long as she kept 
clean and neat,” I thought what a much happier im¬ 
pression she would have made if she had taken time 
to fluff her hair out instead of slicking every indi¬ 
vidual hair back from a very high forehead. Her 



THE WOMAN WHOSE FACE IS SHORT AND WIDE LOOKS 
BETTER IF HER HAIR IS PUFFED HIGH (FIGURE AT 
THE LEFT) 


face was long and narrow, which made the effect 
ten times worse. 

To bob or not to bob the hair is another question 
asked. In cases where it is necessary, as after an 
illness, there is but one thing to do — bob it. In 
several instances the style has been very becoming, 
but as a rule I think it very trying. If the person 

65 




“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


is young, really pretty and the hair has a natural 
curl or wave — all well and good, but in all my ex¬ 
perience I have seen only one person of an uncertain 
age (over forty) who had bobbed hair that was 
attractive and interesting, and she was such a fas¬ 
cinating person that her hair might have been 
shaved and I verily believe it would have been be¬ 
coming. 


66 



CHAPTER V 

CARE OF THE FEET 


B Y THEIR feet ye shall know them. And I 
believe this is literally true. I think it would 
not be an unfair test of the gray matter con¬ 
cealed under one’s cranium if a judge should have 
no other way of testing one’s sanity. 

For some weeks I have taken a certain line of ele¬ 
vated trains and have been studying the feet of my 
fellow travelers (perhaps they have been doing the 
same thing to me, but my conscience is clear, for 
with the first cold breeze I put on spats and have 
not been a day without them since, and my low-cuts 
have thick soles and walking heels). Regarding the 
latter, I am happy to announce that the top-notchers 
in so-called society are wearing low heels, heavy- 
soled walking shoes, either with wool hosiery or 
spats, and the silly little butterflies who are still run¬ 
ning around in satin slippers which were never meant 
for any use outside of a limousine or one’s own four 
walls are decidedly not in fashion. 

All this makes me state right here that one of the 
67 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 

best known doctors in this country, and in Europe, 
recently said that nearly every beginning of a cold 
could be traced to the feet being either damp or 
chilled. Please just remember that. Nothing is 
quite so ridiculous as to see low strapped slippers, 
thin of sole, and a fur coat on a bitter cold day and 
then hear someone say, “Isn’t it sad? Poor Jenny 



NORMAL POSITION OF THE FOOT 


June is down with pneumonia.’’ Then if she dies 
the dear Lord has to take all the blame. 

To return to the feet on the elevated. First there 
was a man with lemon yellow socks, black low shoes; 
next was a man with lavenderish white socks, brown 
shoes; then three girls with varying shades of brown 
stockings and brown low slippers. Then a girl with 
shabby black slippers, hose so thin that the hairs 
on her legs came through from the knees to ankles; 
and another girl sat so that her garters showed. 

I couldn’t help but think if all those persons had 
68 























Care of the Feet 


thought of how they looked to other people how 
much more beauty there would have been on that 
side of the car. You will never make a mistake, no 
matter what the last word in fashion may be, if you 
have stockings and shoes that match and keep your 



COMFORTABLE LOW HEEL 


foot-gear neat. It only takes a moment to polish 
any kind of a shoe. 

Another thing, you cannot lay the first claim to 
beauty if your feet hurt; and callouses which trouble 
so many are a sure indication that the feet are not 
properly fitted, and occasionally they indicate that 
the arches are not strong and there is undue pres¬ 
sure. Soaking the feet in rather warm water, then 
rubbing the callous with a pumice helps a great deal. 
Rub in cold cream or vaseline, and the relief is al¬ 
most instant. 

There are so many remedies for sale for bunions 
69 



































“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


and corns — many of them very good, so that every 
reader ought to find something to help; and most 
shoe stores have specialists to care for feet that re¬ 
quire individual attention. Personally, I cannot 



WEIGHT THROWN ON TOES BY VERY HIGH HEEL 

advise in any way what mechanical devices are best, 
for each case must be treated individually. 

Corns 

During the summer corns and bunions seem to be 
even more painful than usual. In fact, when pur¬ 
chasing new shoes or any kind of footwear, remem¬ 
ber if comfort and peace of mind are to be enjoyed 
that they should be fitted at least a half size larger 
than for wfinter wear; also remember that a cool 
foot bath in which coarse salt has been dissolved is 
a harmless sedative. Pat the feet softly and do not 


70 

























Care of the Feet 


dry with a towel. For an omnipresent corn or bun¬ 
ion paint with the following every third day. 

Salicylic acid, i dr. 

Flexible collodion, i oz. 

Mix and put a camel’s hair brush through the cork 
of the bottle and use this in applying the lotion to 
the bunion. 

Burning and Perspiring Feet 

Bathe them every night with warm water, not too 
much soap, dust in a good talcum powder; a mas¬ 
sage with cold cream once or twice a week is effica¬ 
cious. A tepid soda water bath with no soap and 
a sponge off with witch hazel will remove the odor 
of perspiration and is very soothing to the feet 

Ankles and Knees 

A noted physician once said that if the ankles, 
knees and wrists were protected the rest of the body 
would take care of itself. So if the woman who 
insists on wearing low shoes will put on spats in 
winter she will find these are easily removed in the 
house or office. A folding button hook is a very 
small accessory to add to the powder puff and mir¬ 
ror with which every woman fortifies herself when 
outward bound. Then one can buy ready-made, or 
knit or crochet at leisure a pair of knee protectors 
71 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


to slip on and thus save wearing heavy u undies ” 
to which there are many objections. 

FOOT POWDER 

Powdered rice, 2 oz. 

Powdered alum, 1 oz. 

Powdered orris-root, 2 oz. 

For Callouses on Feet 

Cover the spot with a bunion plaster, this will re¬ 
move to a degree some of the pressure. Then wear 
broad shoes (I can hear you say you have always 
had your shoes well fitted) ; of course, you have, 
but there has been a too tight pressure at some time 
or the spot would not be there. Wear for walking 
a pair of shoes built on the lines that men and boys 
wear, they will make you toe in a bit, but that is 
what you need to get the foot back in shape. If 
you want comfort you will have to put aside pride, 
and how many think that a long, narrow shoe makes 
the foot appear smaller. It is not one bit true. Fit 
the foot you have to make it comfortable and the 
joy and peace that will shine from your countenance 
will overcome any aversion you may have to com¬ 
mon sense footgear. 

Enlarging the Legs 

Massage the legs every night below the knee with 
any good oil, lanolin or cocoa butter. Work it in 



Care of the Feet 


well with the finger-tips. This will feed the tissue 
and should make the flesh firmer and larger. The 
process is a slow one, and you may have no results 
— for some just naturally have thin legs. Walking 
up and down stairs is supposed to be a fine leg de¬ 
veloper, as is hiking. 

Just a word to those who must walk or be on 
their feet a great deal. In getting new shoes, be 
fitted at least a half size larger than what you are 
accustomed to. Many people find great relief in 
rubber heels and I have heard that a rubber sponge, 
cut into a slice about a half-inch thick and placed 
under the foot (on sole of shoe) will act like a 
charm when all other supports or mechanical appa¬ 
ratus fail to bring relief. It is worth trying. Un¬ 
less the feet are comfortable, the mind cannot be 
at rest, to say nothing of the physical torture. And 
who hasn’t seen that drawn, tense expression that 
comes when shoes (or the feet in them) are crying 
for release? While on the subject, let me remind 
you that all tan leathers are much cooler, and as 
you value your comfort and consequently your 
beauty, avoid patent leathers. 

I know they are in vogue, they are smart, but they 
are deadly for steady wear, as they are very heat¬ 
ing and have no elasticity. Now all you mothers 
with young children to direct and guide, let me tell 


73 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


you that a medium heel is much better than none at 
all, so see to it, if flat feet and fallen arches are to 
be avoided, that all sports shoes and sandals have 
a good, broad heel, low, but enough to keep the 
body at the right angle. 

Feet and the Face 

Did you ever realize how much facial expression 
depended upon our pedal extremities? How very 
impossible it is to have repose of countenance with 
aching feet? Perhaps that is why the Chinese 
maidens of high birth never smile, for how can they 
with the horrible suffering entailed in acquiring the 
diminutive feet that their rank demands. Happily 
foot binding is practically a thing of the past for 
the girl babies in the new republic; but torture of 
toes, insteps and arches is by no means abandoned 
by the American girl who should know better than 
to go shod in high-heeled slippers on the coldest win¬ 
ter day (or night). 

Foot etiquette, if it may be so termed, is rapidly 
undergoing a change for the better as it is no longer 
considered an unpardonable sin to toe-in just the 
least bit. Boy and Girl Scout organizations have 
done much to eliminate foot ills among the coming 
generation of young people, as it is impossible to 
take long hikes unless the feet are in a normal 


74 



Care of the Feet 


condition and sensibly shod. Indian runners who 
cover such tremendous distances do so because their 
feet are unhampered by cruelly bad fitting shoes, 
and they know how to lay the weight on the ball 
of the foot and how to walk and run with the least 



PRINT OF NORMAL FOOT PRINT OF FLAT FOOT 

resistance. They have no callouses caused by pres¬ 
sure and no bunions because their toes have never 
been wrongly compressed by short footwear. 

Recently a noted physician prescribed boys’ shoes 
for a dainty maiden going to an eastern preparatory 
school; she was to wear them constantly except 
when in evening dress or, to interpret his meaning, 


75 





“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


except when the prescribed social functions of the 
school demanded a change. The result was that in 
a year arch supports were not needed and her foot 
assumed a normal outline. 

The only way to remedy fallen arches is to adopt 
a footline that fits each separate foot (they differ 
greatly) and stick to wearing them, then give the 
proper care. Let me quote the following by a spe¬ 
cialist : 

“Exercise the muscles by rising on the toes and 
walking round the room that way. Next try rising 
on the toes several times, falling back on the heels 
between each lifting of the foot. A woman who 
had much trouble with fallen arches cured herself 
entirely by following these exercises. She was given 
a dozen marbles, quite small ones, and several each 
of graduated larger sizes. Each night she sat in a 
low straight chair, placed the smallest marbles on 
the floor before her and tried to pick them up by 
grasping them under her toes. At first she could 
not hold even one of the marbles but gradually the 
muscles began to function and soon the smallest size 
could be lifted, laid on the floor and lifted again 
for a dozen succeeding times. Then she began on 
the next larger size of marbles and so on until her 
toes could lift quite big ones with no apparent effort. 
For two years she exercised every night for ten or 
76 / 



Care of the Feet 


fifteen minutes, and at the end of that period she 
was able to be on her feet practically all day without 
her arches giving way in the slightest degree.” 

Corns are an affliction so common that it is un¬ 
usual to find a person who has not known their, I 
was going to say heart throbs, for they do often 
throb hard enough to cause the most violent heart¬ 
ache. They are of the hard and soft variety, they 
come between the toes and on top of them and there 
is no remedy quick enough to afford instant relief — 
advertisements to the contrary. 


77 



CHAPTER VI 

ARMS AND HANDS 


I N A season of sleeveless evening frocks it be¬ 
hooves every girl to take especial care of her 
arms. The neck and face are always given 
their share of attention, and the arms have not been 
much neglected of late, but when I happened to re¬ 
mark to a near-debutante that I had not made up 
my mind what to preach about in this chapter, she 
instantly replied, “Oh, tell them how to take care 
of their arms and hands, for they do show so 
much.” 

So following her advice, let me say this talk is for 
“debs” and “sub-debs,” and you who are of older 
years who still indulge in the latest party gowns. 
The first wail that I hear is hair. Yes, I know just 
what a discomfort those fuzzers are and just how 
impossible to remove. I have yet to see a depila¬ 
tory that really worked for good; it does for the 
present, but what a future it lays up for the user. 
Every little fuzzer comes back bringing its sisters, 
cousins and aunts. But take courage. Those of you 
with real determination to battle with the enemy 
78 


Arms and Hands 


may use every night a mixture of pure diluted aqua 
ammonia (not the household brand) and peroxide 
of hydrogen; this bleaches the hairs and weakens 
the root follicles. A bit of toilet pumice rubbed 
over the arms also helps reduce the growth. 

One young woman complained bitterly of goose 
flesh and a rough, sometimes scaly, condition of the 
arms. A helpful treatment is to bathe the arms 
with warm soapy water, then rub with hand sapolio 
(notice I said “hand,” not “kitchen” sapolio), 
then apply a pure cold cream. A vigorous rubbing 
with a Turkish towel after every bath helps to make 
nice, smooth arms. And right here let me give this 
recipe for a soothing arm lotion, which also serves 
to whiten the arms and hands: 

Orange flower water, 6 oz. 

Pure glycerine, 3 oz. 

Powdered borax, 3 dr. 

and should be applied after the towel rub. 

Oftentimes the arms may be in a satisfactory con¬ 
dition, but the elbows will be rough and sometimes 
discolored. Just why this is so often the case I can¬ 
not explain, unless it is caused by the habit of con¬ 
stantly putting the elbows on the table. 

If undiluted lemon juice is applied every night 
and permitted to dry on, it is a very effective bleach, 


79 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


and the following is an efficacious bleaching paste 
and a bit quicker in results: 

Eggs, 2 whites. 

Lemon juice, i teaspoon. 

Honey, i oz. 

Oil bitter almonds, 8 drops. 

Mix all these with enough fine oatmeal (not 
Quaker oats) to make a thick paste, spread this on 
the arms or the elbows, cover or bandage rather 
with gauze or any perfectly clean linen or cotton 
strips. Put on at night and let it stay until morn¬ 
ing. 

This is a good place to say that if one’s arms are 
habitually of a yellowish cast that there is undoubt¬ 
edly a great need for a decided and radical change 
of diet. There must be less fat, less sweet, less of 
everything that is heavy and rich, and there must 
be an abundance of fresh fruit, green vegetables 
and of water abundance between meals, very little 
meat, fish, chicken, lamb chops and occasional strips 
of broiled bacon permissible. Isn’t this a hard blow 
to those of you who indulge in sodas, sundaes and 
all those alluring concoctions quite as much in winter 
as in summer? So much has been said about the 
care of the hands in the winter time that I will not 
repeat just yet, for long gloves are much in vogue 
and they cover a multitude of blemishes. 

80 



Arms and Hands 


Hands Tell Character 

Fingernails are actually about the most difficult 
problem one has in the cold weather, when dirt 
seems to stick to the hands and washings are so fre¬ 
quently needed. There is nothing but a nail brush 
to remove dirt from under the nails, and the only 
thing to do is to carry a small brush in a case with 
a waterproof lining, a small orange-wood stick (cut 
one down) and a file, the end stuck into a cork to 
prevent cutting the case. This outfit may be carried 
in the shopping bag and the result is perfectly clean 
nails throughout the day in office or shop. And be 
sure that in washing the hands you use a soap that 
is healing and not irritating to the skin, that your 
towel is not too coarse and your hands are thor¬ 
oughly dried so that chapping is out of the question. 

White and Smooth Arms 

Shades of our grandmothers! What on earth do 
they think of the custom of sleeves curtailed almost 
to the shoulder, arms and hands often gloveiess, 
necks bare both back and front and underwear oft- 
times fastened only by precarious straps half on and 
half off over the shoulders? If we Americans 
would only do things rationally. But so few of us 
do. We rush to extremes in dress, in amusements, 
81 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


and yes, I must say it — in beauty culture. 

Years ago Marietta Holly wrote some very clever 
stories in which her heroine, Samantha, showed wit 
and wisdom unfailing in all situations of life and 
her favorite maxim was “be mejum.” 

Elbow sleeves with gloves to cover the arms is an 
extremely comfortable fashion. With the neck cut 
square or round in front and camisole securely an¬ 
chored, the most fastidious “ shade ” could not ob¬ 
ject to it, but arms and neck must receive an extra 
amount of attention by those who wear such style. 
The glare of broad daylight reveals pitilessly any 
coarseness or roughness of the skin and hairs on 
the arms look like young wires if dark in color. 

A harmless bleach for them is to use a mixture of 
equal parts of ammonia and peroxide of hydrogen, 
together with a generous pinch of borax. This 
lightens the color, bleaches the skin and if used regu¬ 
larly night and morning and perhaps in between 
times, the result will be satisfactory. In fact, per¬ 
sistence in any treatment is what counts. 

A young matron with no cook and who does all 
the work in her apartment, and whose hands are a 
joy to behold, says there is nothing like sour milk 
as a beautifying agent. Wash the hands and arms 
in warm water to open the pores, then bathe with 
the sour milk (real clabber), rub in well. Do not 
82 



Arms and Hands 


dry and after ten minutes wipe off and apply a lotion 
of equal parts of lemon juice and rosewater with 
addition of a very little glycerine, a few drops of 
benzoin and a little distilled water. There are no 
exact proportions, as this is just a home recipe built 
as needed. Over the lotion don long chamois gloves 
at night, with the palms cut out to permit ventila¬ 
tion, and I assure you one would never know that 
such lily white hands as emerge each morning ever 
did more than to sew a fine seam. This treatment 
removes any odor of dish water that clings so per¬ 
sistently, even if mops are used. The hands do get 
in when doing those abominations unto the house¬ 
wife— pots, pans and kettles. 

Cold Days 

When chilly days come, the ounce of prevention, 
which if heeded will help to store up strength and 
energy so necessary to carry us through the winter. 
Did you ever see a cold, shivery person who im¬ 
pressed you as beautiful? No matter what nature’s 
gifts may be, if the nose is red, and the figure bent 
and drawn, good-bye to ease, comfort and good 
looks. 

For the wrists it is a simple matter to have little 
under sleeves with elastic around the bottom fas¬ 
tened inside the large cuffs, which most of the win- 
83 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


ter garments have and up which the wind ascends 
merrily so the wearer is practically unprotected. 
These half sleeves are of the same material as the 
coat lining or a harmonizing color. 

Then comes the question of chapped hands and 
burning lips when the cold winds blow and the little 
robins have all taken flight to the southland. If a 
box of camphor ice is kept close at hand and a bit 
rubbed on the lips at night they will remain soft 
and moist; this is another ounce of prevention well 
worth heeding. A small tube purchased at the drug¬ 
gist’s will last a long time and if kept tightly cov¬ 
ered is as good at the last as at the first. Here is 
another warning: all boxes of cold cream, vaseline 
and any greasy preparation used should be kept 
tightly closed. Some very fastidious mortals never 
leave the soap they use exposed on the lavatory but 
keep it safely covered in an individual soap box. 
Dust and minute particles that fly unseen in the air 
will creep in. 

To avoid chapped hands and face, if the bathing 
water is very hard, put a few drops of benzoin into 
the last water used. This is always grateful to the 
skin and very refreshing. Then at night nothing 
is more soothing than old-fashioned mutton tallow 
just like our mothers and grandmothers used to 
make. Rub into the hands and draw on a pair of 
84 



Arms and Hands 


old kid gloves from which the fingers are cut off 
and a square cut from the palm for air. 

Talking about hands reminds me that a man once 
said that finger nails dressed in mourning immedi¬ 
ately gave him the keynote to a person’s character. 
Not only that, but underneath the nails is a favorite 
hiding place for germs, so every mother should train 
her child to the use of the orangewood stick and he 
should be taught to push back the cuticle from the 
nails when drying the hands. 

You see it is these daily habits that make for 
beauty, the so-called “little things” which, if neg¬ 
lected, cause great big troubles. 

For Warm Weather 

For the housewife who must go right on and 
wash dishes, no matter how hot the weather, her 
hands will suffer if not cared for religiously. It is 
true that with the disappearance of the “general 
house-worker” many labor saving devices have been 
installed, such as electric dishwashers, washing ma¬ 
chines, etc., but still there are many who must do 
things in the old way for some time longer. Please 
remember that after having your hands in dishwater 
let the cold water run over them for a minute to 
close the pores fully; then have at hand (do not 
wait to step upstairs to the bathroom) a soothing 
85 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


toilet lotion that you know suits your skin and rub 
in well; then pat dry with a soft towel. If glycerine 
is agreeable to your face and hands, use one part 
to two parts of rosewater and a small part of ben¬ 
zoin compound tincture. Some toilet water or 
cologne may be added. This is very efficacious if 
used faithfully. 

Care of the Finger Nails 

Daintily kept finger nails should be the major 
part of every young woman’s toilet, for nothing is 
more indicative of bad breeding and carelessness, 
than to go around with handsome rings and nails 
draped in mourning. It only takes a few moments 
to push back the cuticle from around the nails, to 
keep them neatly rounded (not long and pointed) 
and in lieu of a buffer, rub them briskly in the palm 
of the hand after having washed them, and be sure 
always to dry them thoroughly. If you suffer with 
excessively moist palms dust off after washing with 
talcum powder or pulverized borax. 

Rough Hands 

As every other woman one meets nowadays is her 
own cook and housemaid and sometimes nursery 
maid too, there is a great hue and cry about rough 
and reddened hands. I heard one young matron 
86 



Arms and Hands 


say to another, “You haven’t a maid, how in the 
world do you keep such nice looking hands?” 

I listened carefully and here is the very simple 
advice she gave condensed in a nutshell. During 
the cold weather it is really difficult to keep hands 
from chapping unless most carefully dried every 
time they are taken out of water. A dish mop 
should be used and any spot or stains from prepar¬ 
ing vegetables removed at once with lemon (keep 
a half of one on the soap dish ready for instant 
use), also a piece of pumice. And be sure to have 
a soft hand towel hanging in the kitchen. 

A noted physician once told me when I remarked 
upon his immaculate hands (and I knew he had to 
wash them many times a day, or an hour, rather) 
that the whole secret was in perfect drying. A can 
of the very best powdered shaving soap kept in the 
kitchen for a quick cleansing of the hands will keep 
them soft and white. 

I wonder how many know, especially the young 
girls, that pointed nails, colored very pink and pol¬ 
ished until they might be used for mirrors, are in 
the worst possible taste? All that is necessary is 
to keep a well groomed nail, cut rather short and 
neatly rounded (not pointed like a claw). A dip 
into the powder and then just one or two brisk rubs 
on the buffer and the work is over. 

87 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


At night a bit of cold cream or a benzoin lotion 
may be rubbed into the hands and to keep the skin 
in good condition; do not go ungloved even if a muff 
is carried. Be sure to wear very loose gloves in 
cold weather for tight ones impede circulation and 
ugly, cold red hands are sure to be the result, and 
right here let me say that real beauty of hands or 
body depends upon a good stirring circulation. With 
cold hands or feet one will be so terribly uncom¬ 
fortable and unbeautiful that the finest costume and 
the most thrilling matinee will be as naught. A 
quick remedy as told me by a physical culture 
teacher is to rub the palms of the hands briskly at 
least forty times and if possible rise on the tip toes 
at least ten times. Then the resulting glow should 
make one comfy and at peace with the world. 

If hands perspire, and what is worse than to 
shake a clammy (shall I say “paw” as the small 
boy did?) dust lightly with a good talcum powder 
which should be kept on the beauty shelf in the 
kitchen. That is no joke. The modern kitchen is 
not complete without a mirror (triple variety pre¬ 
ferred), a hook for aprons to make a quick change, 
a whisk broom, talcum, and cold cream. We must 
give first aid to the hands at once and not wait for 
time and a convenient season upstairs in one’s bou¬ 
doir, for precious little time the average woman has 
88 



Arms and Hands 


for beautifying, so those few moments must be well 
spent. 

To Soften Water 

To counteract hard water, keep a bit of powdered 
borax close by and sprinkle in the suds. This will 
tend to keep your hands in good condition. You 
will find nothing so soothing to a little girl’s lips and 
little chapped paddies as old-fashioned mutton tal¬ 
low. Warm it to soften, and then rub well into the 
skin. For an astringent wash take witch hazel two- 
thirds and one-third water, dab on the face with a 
bit of cotton or soft cloth. 

Camphor Ice 

It is a very simple process to make camphor ice 
•as you see by the following: 

Spermaceti, 320 gr. 

White wax, 320 gr. 

Camphor, av. oz. 

Melt the first two ingredients. Add camphor, stir 
until cool, pour into molds to harden. 

For Red Hands 

Wear loose fitting gloves or kid mittens in cold 
weather and the rest of your clothing warm and 
loose, and you will have no trouble with red hands. 
They are often caused by poor circulation and expo- 

89 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


sure to cold. The lotion (see recipe below) is ex¬ 
cellent for the hands. Camphor ice is also healing 
and whitening for hands that suffer with the cold. 

RECIPE FOR HAND LOTION 

Tincture of benzoin, z oz. 

Glycerine, 8 oz. 

Rub in thoroughly and allow to dry on the hands. 
Be sure that your hands are thoroughly clean be¬ 
fore applying the lotion. 

Many people like to add a few drops of rose¬ 
water to this combination, but it is not at all 
essential. 


90 



CHAPTER VII 

EYES AND EYEBROWS 


“ ERHAPS you need glasses,” I remarked to 
I —* the very attractive young woman who com- 
plained that there seemed to be a fine net¬ 
work of tiny lines between her eyes. She replied 
that she saw perfectly well, but I told her I would 
not even try to help her with the fast forming 
wrinkles until she went to the very best oculist, for 
I felt sure that there was eyestrain, and until it was 
corrected the advance guard of crows’ feet would 
be on the job daily, with no let-up. 

Eyebrows also should have attention the same as 
the hair, and shops have eyebrow brushes curved 
and just fitted for the purpose. A bit of vaseline 
rubbed in and then brushed in every night will help 
to promote the growth of the brows. If the hair is 
inclined to be colorless, eyebrow pencils may be dis¬ 
creetly used, and they are harmless. 

I do not advise trimming the eyelashes ever, as 
the hair grows in perhaps a little thicker but also 
stiffer; so unless glasses are worn and lashes are 
so long that they sweep the lenses, avoid cutting 


91 


“Dame Curtsey’s’’ Beauty Talks 


them. If it has to be done, let an expert perform 
the ceremony. 

To return to the first lesson—eyestrain. No 
one wants to wear glasses, but when I see children 
just able to toddle wearing them I am glad that 
at last mothers are waking up to the fact that some¬ 
times even children of very tender years need 
glasses, and by putting them on, eye defects may be 
corrected so that in years to come they may be dis¬ 
carded. 

Wise parents see to it that visits to the oculist 
are paid as regularly as visits to the dentist as a pre¬ 
ventive measure, and, oh, what troubles are saved. 
It is the old adage the ounce of prevention being 
worth the pound of cure. Oftentimes school chil¬ 
dren if fitted to glasses need wear them during 
school hours only or during the close application 
of study periods. It is very easy to inculcate into 
very young children that they must never read unless 
the light comes over the left shoulder (if possible) ; 
that they must not work facing a bright light, and 
as they grow older if they get the habit formed of 
closing the eyes, if only for a few seconds many 
times a day, their eyes will be most grateful. These 
brief rests will do untold good in keeping one’s eyes 
bright and strengthen the muscles and rest the optic 
nerve by relaxation. 



Eyes and Eyebrows 


Mother Nature is very kind to us, and she 
quickly responds to every care given her. The 
heart rests between beats and the eye literally be¬ 
tween winks. This goes on so automatically and we 
take so much for granted I often marvel that our 
eyes and hearts last as long as they do. This talk 
is a long way from wrinkles perhaps, but if any of 
you find wrinkles coming, trot right off to the ocu¬ 
list for either glasses or new glasses, and if they 
are not necessary, make up your mind that you have 
gotten into the very bad habit of unconsciously 
scowling when preoccupied with deep thinking. 

A gentle massaging of the temples with the balls 
of the first two fingers will often ease the tension 
around the eyes after a strenuous day. 

Children’s Eyes 

I earnestly hope that parents’ and teachers’ asso¬ 
ciations will win in establishing a rule that there 
shall be no home work necessary in the grade 
schools, for I think that night studying is a crime 
for children of tender years. Boys and girls should 
be in high school before there should be any work 
outside the schoolroom. When this is done we 
will not see so many children wearing glasses. If 
children did not overuse their eyes by artificial light 
there would not be so many inquiries from very 


93 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


young women asking how to eradicate lines around 
the eyes and in the middle of the forehead. Nearly 
all of them come from eyestrain or an unconscious 
squint from intensive thinking. 

Burning Eyes 

Now for the eyes which burn so in summer heat. 
During an enforced daily siesta, take tea leaves left 
from the daily brew, have very cold, fold in a layer 
of cheesecloth and place across the eyes. The com¬ 
fort is unspeakable. Of course, tea leaves for the 
eyes are an old housewife’s remedy long since for¬ 
gotten by many of us. 

Change Color of Eyes 

Color of the eyes must stay as nature has made 
it, and I dare say the light blue eyes just suit the 
rest of the makeup, as I am a firm believer in the 
artistic sense of the Creator. I am not an advocate 
of dyeing hair or other artificial aids to so-called 
beauty, but I am a firm believer in making the best 
of all the good points one has and keeping one’s 
self in the best trim possible. This takes time, com¬ 
mon sense and then contentment with results after 
doing one’s best. Nature rarely makes a mistake in 
the color of the eye, and it usually goes perfectly 
with the hair and complexion. 


94 



Eyes and Eyebrows 


Long Eyelashes and Well Defined 
Eyebrows 

For the eyebrows get a nice little brush made just 
for this purpose, use it faithfully night and morn¬ 
ing and every night massage the brow and the lids 
with vaseline; the white kind is best to use. Train 
the hairs to lie nice and even by brushing. It will 
take time, but as long as the hair roots are there 
it can be done. 

Eyestrain 

Oftentimes there is an eyestrain that causes 
squinting and screwing up of the face into real dis¬ 
figurement. So every one of you, young or old, 
make sure if you wear glasses that they fit your 
eyes, and in the case of very young children see 
whether they need glasses, especially for school 
work. No, I’m not in league with any oculist, only 
speaking from grim personal experience and hope 
I may steer some one by easier paths than the ones I 
have trodden. I feel exactly like the young daugh¬ 
ter who was driven to the dentist by her mother, 
exclaiming all the way: “But my teeth don’t ache,” 
and found to her surprise that there were two yet 
unhurting cavities to be filled. The child may say 
he sees perfectly well, but does he? And your 
glasses are “all right,” but are they? 


95 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


Eyes of Youth 

Every time I see a tiny child wearing glasses, I 
feel grateful that the mother has been wise enough 
at the very beginning to try to ascertain what is 
wrong with the vision. Perhaps it is because I have 
known of cases where the adult has suffered untold 
misery from defective eyesight that might have been 
greatly remedied if the eyes had had the proper care 
and treatment in extreme youth. 

Wearing glasses may be a cross to the child and 
an added expense to the family, but if corrections 
are made before the age of twenty, the eyes bid fair 
to last the allotted lifetime. Many children need 
artificial help only during school hours and study 
periods; others may have to wear them until exami¬ 
nations show improvement and they may be 
released. 

Probably the eyes are more overworked and re¬ 
ceive less intelligent care than any other members 
of our body. We thoughtlessly read in a poor 
light, sew or work with the light badly placed, sleep 
facing a window or walk in the glaring sun with¬ 
out the protection of a broad-brimmed hat or a sun¬ 
shade. 

A good rule to teach kiddies is never to rub their 
eyes with their hands; hands catch many infectious 

96 



Eyes and Eyebrows 


germs and the eye is most susceptible. If there is 
some sudden irritation rub the eyelids over the 
closed eyes toward the nose, not outwardly. 

With convalescents, old or young, the eyes are 
apt to be in a weakened condition from illness, 
and may be easily overstrained by trying to read or 
even to concentrate on colored pictures for any 
length of time. After excessive weeping, the best 
relief is obtained by bathing the eyes with hot water. 
Saturate soft handkerchiefs or bandaging and lay 
the compress hot as possible over the lids and when 
cool repeat until there is decided relief. Boracic 
acid, a teaspoonful to a pint of hot water (distilled 
if possible) makes a soothing lotion for inflamed 
eyes. Teaching a child the use of an eyecup is a 
fine thing. Every traveler should carry an eyecup, 
for after a strenuous motor trip, a journey by rail, 
or just the day in town for city folk, the eye bath 
brings a feeling of rejuvenation almost unbelievable. 

If there is not an oculist at hand and styes ap¬ 
pear, a harmless remedy is to apply carbolated vase¬ 
line. Use it several times a day. It may smart 
a bit, but does no harm even if it gets into the eye, 
though it may make the eye water a little. 

Every child may be trained to use a wee brush 
on the eyelashes and thus keep them in the way they 
should grow. Just get a child’s tooth brush and 


97 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 

keep for this purpose along with the other toilet 
brushes. If the hairs seem to be scanty apply a bit 
of vaseline. This does good slowly but surely and 
the results will justify the time spent. 

I hope these talks will bring home the gist of my 
idea that “Beauty” begins in mere infancy, when 
the mothers must do much for their children. 

Training the Eyelashes 

Making the eyelashes longer is a slow process, 
but if you rub in a bit of white vaseline along the 
edges every night, in a few weeks’ time you should 
note some change. 

Eye-wash 

Eyes should be bathed by means of an eyecup; 
it is very easy to do and no trick at ail to make up 
boracic acid fresh at least every two weeks. And 
how grateful our peepers are for this bit of extra 
care. 

Expressive Eyes 

The eye is perhaps the most characteristic fea¬ 
ture of the face and has been poetically termed “ the 
mirror of the soul;” it is the thermometer indicat¬ 
ing at once any physical or mental disturbance, 
and in its depth one reads life’s joys and tragedies. 

98 



Eyes and Eyebrows 


It expresses the feeling of fear, pain, anxiety and 
the thrills of unexpected surprise more potently than 
any spoken word and between those who love, a 
glance of the eye gives approbation or displeasure. 

Persons with really fine eyes have an attribute of 
beauty that will cover many other defects, especially 
if they are blessed with a spirit of animation which 
is an asset to be coveted and cultivated by every 
one who desires personal charm. 



EYEBROWS MEETING GIVE A FROWNING EXPRESSION 


Again the eye shows many racial characteristics 
that are unmistakable and which we instinctively 
look for, though there are exceptions to the rule 
brought about by inter-marriages and climatic 
changes. However, one feels very sure that an 
almond-shaped eye means birth in China or Japan; 
the dark, languishing eye of the Spanish maiden 
goes picturesquely with her mantilla and fan, a 
dark-eyed Norseman would be unthinkable, and who 
but the negro can roll the eyes when making a stren¬ 
uous appeal for mercy? 


99 



















CHAPTER VIII 


GENERAL HEALTH AND 
INFORMATION 

For Thin Folks in Hot Weather 

I N THE first place relax, and I wish I could 
doubly emphasize this point, and be temperate 
in all things. Baths, neither hot nor cold, but 
of just tepid water, should be taken at night. They 
are restful and quieting to the nerves, and have you 
ever noticed that it is the thin individual who is 
excessively nervous, racing through the day, tossing 
through the night, worrying usually over things that 
never happened? And that makes me think of the 
wise saying that I saw pinned over the desk of a 
brainy editor, “Today is the Tomorrow you wor¬ 
ried about Yesterday and it never happened.” Un¬ 
usual weather conditions affect us bodily and men¬ 
tally, so that we have to use our will power to keep 
the balance. A mighty good thing to acquire is the 
“nap” habit, and right now I can hear a chorus, 
“ I never sleep in the daytime,” or “ I can’t possibly 
take the time.” If you can’t sleep you can rest 


IOO 


Health and Information 


and relax. In this way you can gradually cultivate 
the art of catching “forty winks” and will soon 
feel lost without this rest period which is so neces¬ 
sary, especially to our thin friends. 

Next, eat less and a little oftener. Our English 
cousins never abandon the afternoon tea hour and 
they are wise enough to have the beverage always 
just as piping hot in summer as in winter. Our 
icy cold drinks, while delicious during the process 
of consumption, leave us just as hot and miserable 
as before, while the cup of hot tea stimulates and 
starts the perspiration and we are in consequence 
much cooler. 

If one is really very thin, olive oil rubs are a won¬ 
derful assistant in putting on a few extra pounds. 
After the tepid bath pat in the oil all over the body, 
especially on the arms and around the neck, having 
the oil slightly warm, as it is thus much more effica¬ 
cious. Cocoa butter is excellent instead of the oil, 
but the main thing is the regular, persistent use 
of either and a regular hour for the nap; right after 
luncheon is the best time. While speaking about 
oil, a bit of the much abhorred castor oil rubbed 
into the eyebrows and on the edge of the eyelashes 
will promote growth and if one is very thin, the 
hair on head and eyebrows is apt to be dry and thin, 
too. 


IOI 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


If the face is unduly wrinkled and Mother Na¬ 
ture has not placed these marks there by reason of 
length of days, it is a sign that the facial muscles 
have become relaxed and need help in being re¬ 
stored. Again there is nothing better than oil, 
patted in with the fingertips and not rubbed. A 
charming woman quite beyond the allotted three 
score years and ten has been a devotee of plain table 
olive oil for years and her skin is soft and clear 
and very little seamed by time. A dry skin wrinkles 
easily, but a moist, soft one keeps its youthful tex¬ 
ture. These are just general hints. Our readers 
must realize that they are individual subjects and 
each must work out her own salvation as such; that 
cold baths are death to some people; that a milk 
diet is not for every one; that some people do not 
like tea; that raw eggs are just poison to some, and 
that common sense must be used in acquiring the 
beauty which we all crave and which is ours by right 
of inheritance. 

The Afternoon Nap 
There never was a truer saying than “you can¬ 
not burn the candle at both ends,” so if restful sleep 
is not possible at night, rest, with or without sleep, 
must be taken in the daytime. So all you mothers 
with multitudinous household cares lend me your 


102 



Health and Information 


ears, and then go at once and follow out these pre¬ 
cepts and do not let me hear one protest of lack 
of time or “it is so much trouble” or, as one young 
matron nearby vetoed, “ I never can sleep in the day¬ 
time.” 

Be this as it may, if any of you want to retain 
a vestige of beauty, select an hour (right after one 
o’clock is best), go into a darkened bedroom, take 
off every stitch of clothing and throw on a negligee 
or a dainty, thin nightie, void of sleeves and low of 
neck. Bathe the face and arms with some aromatic 
toilet water or cologne, and if you are very warm, 
an ice bag at the back of the neck will bring almost 
instant relief, and water from the faucet allowed 
to run over the wrists will prove most soothing. 

Right here I want to tell you a very simple rem¬ 
edy for headache, or rather to prevent the head¬ 
ache, so common when one has to be out for hours 
with a hat on. A morsel of cracked ice slipped in 
under the hair, under the French twist, pinned in 
with veil pin or hairpin will give almost instant 
comfort. If one has curly hair it just curls a bit 
more and if the hair is straight it only becomes a bit 
more moist and any drops are mopped up with the 
handkerchief. This sounds absurd and impractical, 
but I have tried it, and gone through an intensely 
hot summer when daily shopping was a necessity. 

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“Dame Curtsey’s’’ Beauty Talks 


Every iced tea, every glass of ice water, was minus 
a tiny piece of ice and I seldom had a headache. 

The next thing to do, having attended to the 
creature comforts, is to make your mind a blank, 
forget the company coming to dinner, the dress¬ 
maker who failed to keep her appointment, the fact 
that Johnny has been exposed to whooping cough, 
and the laundress’ not returning your best blouse. 
All these things are momentous, but for sixty blessed 
minutes — though the heavens fall—you are not 
responsible. 

After a week of this routine religiously adhered 
to, your whole being will cry for this time of repose, 
the habit once acquired will be insistent and no mat¬ 
ter how distressingly hot the nights, this tonic effect 
gained every afternoon will help out, so that you 
will not mind missing a little beauty sleep. At the 
end of the rest period it is a good plan to get ahead 
of the night game by taking either the sponge or 
tub, giving your hair the requisite number of strokes 
and dusting off with your preferred powder. Then, 
if the family is a large one and the bathrooms lim¬ 
ited in number to one or even two, they will rise en 
masse and call you blessed for being so thoughtful 
as to make one less for the night round. We are 
creatures of habit, and it is just as easy to acquire 
good ones as bad. 


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Health and Information 


Winter Hygiene 

The north wind doth blow 
And we shall have snow, 

And what will Miss Betty do then? 

Sweet thing . 

She } ll not shiver nor shake, 

Nor inwardly quake, 

For she knows how to keep herself warm, 
Dear thing . 

That jingle is literally true, for this generation 
of young folk have certainly learned the secret of 
comfort in cold weather. Of course, I must grant 
that it is fashionable to indulge in winter sports 
and to do that one must be fittingly clothed. I hap¬ 
pened to be with a young college lassie when she 
was in consultation with one of our most famous 
physicians, and he was perfectly delighted with the 
low shoe she was wearing, heavy of sole, broad of 
toe and square of heel. I am glad to say that such 
footgear, cut on almost regular masculine lasts, is 
quite the smart thing. Listen to this: they are to 
be worn when low of cut with woolen stockings and 
in extreme cold with spats. Now, I am sure there 
are going to be many less red noses, for cold pedal 
extremities mean the latter with a vengeance. 



“Dame Curtsey's” Beauty Talks 


For the last few years, or ever since collarless 
dresses have been in vogue, throat specialists tell 
us that there have been a far less number of sore 
throats and bronchial affections. It all stands to 
reason for, if we are accustomed to necks and chests 
hardened to changes in temperatures, we do not 
take cold as readily as when we wore high collars 
every day and then changed to a low-cut evening 
frock at night, or on the occasion when such cos¬ 
tumes were necessary. If the back of the neck and 
shoulders are protected, a cold is seldom acquired 
from a “V” or round neck. 

To be comfortable in the winter time, and most 
of us have to study that question in the mid-west, 
one must exercise common sense and consider one’s 
own physical peculiarities, coupled with the best 
advice of those in whom we place authority. While 
not a fresh-air crank, I demand windows open, 
plenty of light, warm bedclothes, a warm, comfy 
nightie, and often some artificial heat for my feet. 

The very first principle of keeping warm and 
comfortable as the thermometer goes down is to 
keep up a good circulation. Chilblains, the bane of 
cold weather to so many, are caused by poor cir¬ 
culation in the feet and by thin blood. In fact, 
those who are not up to par are apt to be pestered 
this way. For any thus afflicted this lotion is ex- 



Health and Information 


tremely soothing: Take equal parts of myrrh (tinc¬ 
ture) and the compound tincture of benzoin, shake 
well and apply nightly. Persons who are easily af¬ 
fected by cold should avoid all extreme exposures. 

The diet is another very important item during 
the winter. We need to store up heat and energy, 
so red meats, eggs, cream soups, baked beans, and 
all nourishing foods are demanded. Cooling salads, 
dainty desserts, are not so much in evidence on the 
daily menu. 

Wrinkles Versus Fat 

“ Kate looks just as young as her daughter,” was 
a remark I overheard recently at a debutante tea. 
And why shouldn’t she? I say that Kate deserves 
a world of credit, for if there is ever a time when a 
girl appreciates a fresh, charming mother it is when 
she is just about to plunge into the big world and 
needs, as never before, “ a young mother.” 

A noted specialist said, once upon a time, “ It’s 
the foolish woman who permits herself to fade and 
wrinkle or to become fat and flabby.” 

According to this authority, every woman should 
keep herself young and beautiful, and that doesn’t 
mean that one must have perfect features, wonder¬ 
ful eyes or a perfect thirty-six figure, but it does 
mean that a bit more than ordinary care should be 


107 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


given to keeping the charms with which Nature en¬ 
dowed us. 

Many wrinkles and crows’ feet are caused by 
carelessness. For instance, if one reads in a dim 
light, even just a few minutes, or just to glance over 
the pictures of a new magazine; a glare of light 
on some sewing, much reading on the train or much 
reading when in bed in a recumbent position, we 
may think just a little time doing any one of these 
things will not matter; but let me assure you un¬ 
sightly lines will come, the eyes will dim and dull, 
and then we will wonder why age has crept in so 
unawares. 

A truly grandame of the old school insists that 
her scarcely wrinkled forehead and scarcely even a 
hair line around the eyes is all owing to the fact 
that she always wears a broad-brimmed hat or car¬ 
ries a parasol w r hen in the sun, always has the top 
up on her touring car, so she never unconsciously 
scowls. It is hard to realize that most of our beauty 
ills and disfigurements are made unconsciously or 
from habits acquired so easily that we wonder how 
such and such a condition has come. The cure is 
always such a slow process. 

Daily Exercise 

A noted physician said recently that exercise regu- 

108 



Health and Information 


larly taken was the greatest panacea for the ills that 
flesh is heir to and there can be no beauty without 
health. He went on to say that walking was the 
very best antidote for worry (that beauty killer) ; 
that if everyone walked at least five miles a day 
there would be very little use for doctors, to say 
nothing of beauty specialists. It promotes circula¬ 
tion. There would be no need for rouge, as Mother 
Nature paints more exquisite hues on pale cheeks 
and lips than any artificial pigment can. The blood 
is the stream that nourishes the entire body. To 
keep it flowing freely requires a certain amount of 
exercise, and that is why mental and nervous trou¬ 
bles are often cured by the regular rest and exer¬ 
cise provided at sanitariums. 

The glad summer time brings with it many oppor¬ 
tunities for play, which is so necessary for grown¬ 
ups, who give most of the winter time to the strenu¬ 
ous work demanded by the business world. The 
housekeeper, too, looks forward to a vacation, or 
at least to a change in the manner of living. We 
all feel the call of the open as June time draws near. 
While many of us may not be able to play tennis or 
golf, to row or to swim, we can religiously walk, 
taking deep, exhilarating draughts of fresh air. 
I would like to quote the following, which seems 
to apply to the thought I want to leave with you. 


109 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


The woman who would remain young cultivates 
a keen sense of beauty and takes her enjoyment 
more or less as a child and forgets quickly the petty 
annoyances which come in every life and cause worry 
lines. 

A sympathetic companion adds to the pleasure of 
a walk; lacking that, cultivate the power of observa¬ 
tion. It is surprising how much we miss by not see¬ 
ing what is of interest and of beauty on our hurried 
flights. We seem to have but one end, and that 
to get there in the shortest possible time. Watch for 
new shades in the sky, for new settings or back¬ 
grounds to form charming mental pictures of even 
commonplace surroundings. Even if our faces may 
not stand the test of correct line and form, signs of 
intelligence and keen interest bring a beauty all their 
own. Fresh air will brush the cobwebs from our 
brains, add luster to our hair and give tints and a 
quality to our complexions that were never made 
by cold creams and powders. 

To bringe new charm to ladye’s faire 
Lave in Maye dew in ye morninge aire. 

From the above couplet we are led to believe that 
the grand dames of ancient days were not averse to 
rising early in this glorious month to bathe their 


no 



Health and Information 


faces in the morning dew. That means early enough 
to be ahead of the sun and perhaps this confirms 
the old saw that “ Early to bed and early to rise, 
makes a man healthy, wealthy and wise.” I re¬ 
member when protesting against the early retiring 
and the consequent early rising that this only applied 
to the masculine sex, and my mother assured me 
it was only poetic license that said “man,” since the 
benefits were shared equally by little girls. 

There is no gainsaying the fact that morning dew 
applied to the face does leave a soft and velvety 
texture. That is why so many English girls have 
such radiantly lovely complexions, perhaps not from 
the dew, but from the fact that they take long walks 
in misty, moist weather (about all they have to walk 
in, says “ Polly,” who has just returned from many 
moons “over there”). 

Here we spend too much time indoors, the skin 
loses its freshness and clear color and gradually as¬ 
sumes a yellowish hue, is dry and parchment-like, 
and all that many people need is to rejuvenate by 
systematic exercise in the open air, especially if the 
normal life is spent largely indoors. Constant 
breathing of impure air is very conducive toward 
making a poor skin, for it means impoverished 
blood. The most important factor in creating this 
objectionable condition is badly-ventilated living 
iii 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


and sleeping rooms. Keep your windows wide open 
summer and winter; and avoid draughts. 

When the healthfulness of the skin is impaired 
and its elasticity is lost, pimples and blotches ap¬ 
pear almost as if by magic. That is why so many 
complain about the unusually bad condition of hair 
and complexion after the winter months. A famous 
doctor once told me that scarcely anyone, man, 
woman or child, breathed habitually to their full 
lung capacity. In consequence, when attacked by 
illness of any pulmonary nature, little reserve re¬ 
sistance was forthcoming with which to help out the 
already burdened lungs. 

Pure air means death to microbes and even in 
the best of ventilated schoolrooms the number of 
these insidious pests far exceeds those found in the 
open air. The close atmosphere of many public 
places causes a slow poison from the collected car¬ 
bonic acid gas. Therefore, people who are devotees 
of the theaters and movies often complain of lan¬ 
guor and headache. 

Now, by this time, you all see the burden of my 
text without my having specifically stated it; and 
realize I am urging more air, pure air and as many 
hours spent in the open as possible. To the persons 
who must spend hours in offices, I suggest getting 
up fifteen minutes earlier and taking the car at the 

II z 



Health and Information 


next station or walking a certain distance before tak¬ 
ing the train if you are bound by a time table as 
inexorable as the old laws of the Medes and 
Persians. 

And don’t for one minute think that American 
rainy weather is not every bit as good as English 
mists, only our proportion of fog and gray weather 
is so much less than theirs that we are apt to stay 
in and miss the daily constitutional. Just put on a 
raincoat and cap and, gloriously dripping, come in, 
change to fresh, dry raiment and agree with me 
that no one takes cold while exercising if the proper 
care is taken to get dry and warm afterwards. 
Cooling off, or remaining inactive and sitting round 
in damp clothes, gives the chill. 

Along with all this deep breathing and exercise 
don’t forget to drink plentifully of water between 
meals, with a glass or two of either hot or cold be¬ 
fore breakfast. Here is hoping that many young 
people will read this, for youth is the time to lay 
strong and sturdy foundations for the years to come. 
It rejoices my heart every time I hear of a boy or 
girl joining one of the “Scout” organizations, for 
I am sure if they follow the rules laid down we are 
going to see a marvelous change for the better in 
the coming generation. It will be an age of beauti¬ 
ful complexions, clear, sparkling eyes, and luxuriant 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


hair. Beauty of the best type is that always brought 
about by abounding good health. 

Thin People in Hot Weather 

Some people do not perspire as they should and 
suffer intensely during hot weather from a hot, dry 
skin. Strange to say, they are usually exceedingly 
nervous temperaments that are thus affected. In 
such cases everything possible must be done to build 
up the system; there must be frequent warm baths 
(not hot, as these would be too debilitating), mod¬ 
erate exercise, but taken with regularity, and a nour¬ 
ishing diet. Oftentimes Turkish baths with a liberal 
rest period afterwards will relieve the situation. 

As the heat of summer increases, the hair must 
have at least a fortnightly shampoo to keep it free 
from oil and a nightly five-minute brushing to re¬ 
move the dust accumulated during the day and then 
just a few moments of massage with the tips of the 
fingers to keep the scalp loose. 

And now for our thin friend who declares that as 
it gets hotter and hotter she will get thinner and 
thinner. Of course she will, unless she begins to 
relax right now, unless she takes a between-meal 
“snack,” unless she takes a few moments to lie 
down flat on her back and think just nothing. A 
rub-down with olive oil will help a lot (warm the 


114 



Health and Information 


oil just a little). At night take a warm bath and 
after wiping off the water, rub in a good cologne or 
aromatic toilet water, not forgetting the soles of 
the feet. Then the fatigue of the day should van¬ 
ish like magic. 

Putting on Pounds 

There are some people whose one end and aim 
in life is to put on a few extra pounds, though they 
are in the minority. What a fine scheme it would 
be if they could grab (over night) the superfluous 
flesh most people are trying to rid themselves of. 

If those who wish to reduce think they have hard 
lines to follow, to put on a few pounds of adipose 
tissue is a degree harder, this is a proven fact, 
strange as it may seem. Of course, some people 
are just naturally thin, born that way, and no rules 
of diet, no regime will change them very noticeably. 
I fear the same applies to those inclined to the ro¬ 
tund figure, though a strict diet will help a lot to¬ 
wards keeping down to the perfect “ thirty-six,” the 
goal all women strive for. 

Supposing that there is nothing wrong with the 
teeth, nothing askew with the digestive apparatus, 
then a diet to put on flesh should be abundant in the 
energy foodstuffs — fats, starch and sugar. Of the 
fats, butter and oil are fine, as they are easily digested. 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


Sweets should be taken at the end of a meal and 
not between meals, as many candy lovers are in the 
habit of doing. 

The main thing is to supply a large quantity of 
calories in an easily-digested form. It’s not a ques¬ 
tion of how much food we eat, but how much goes 
toward actual nourishment. Grown-ups are only 
children older by added years, but need much the 
same foods as childhood and even babyhood re¬ 
quired, so we find that milk and cream are com¬ 
posed of fattening ingredients unequaled by any 
other food materials. They not only produce fat, 
but nourish every tissue in the entire body, so it is 
apparent that the lacteal fluid must be taken several 
times a day. As there is no food value in either 
tea or coffee, except as taken with cream and sugar, 
it will be far better to take a glass of milk with the 
meal and a glass in between times. 

For those who dislike plain milk, try it combined 
with cocoa, chocolate, malted or as an eggnog. 
Those desiring to increase their weight must have 
regular hours for sleep, and that means a daytime 
nap or at least an hour’s complete relaxation in the 
afternoon, if not actual sleep. Then there must be 
regular exercise, not too strenuous and never to the 
point of real fatigue. Take a tub bath (tepid) 
three times a week and a daily sponge, then a rub 



Health and Information 


down with something like cocoa butter, or an oil, 
like olive or almond. All this helps build up the 
tissues. If done by a professional masseuse, it is a 
source of restful comfort, often producing drowsi¬ 
ness that leads into a sound, restful sleep. Below 
I am giving you some fattening menus as used by 
Antoinette Donnelly, who is an authority on this 
momentous subject: 

BREAKFAST 
Grape juice, one cup 

Cooked cereal with four dates (large helping) 
with cream and sugar 
Scrambled eggs, one-half cup 
Toast, one slice buttered thick 

Cream, thin, seven-eighths cup or cup of half cream and half milk 

LUNCHEON 

Creamed chicken (one-half cup) on toast 
Lettuce salad with oil dressing and crackers 
Vanilla ice cream 
Cup of chocolate 

DINNER 

Cream of corn soup (one cup) 

Roast beef, two and one-half slices 
Baked potato, one medium 
Buttered lima beans, three-eighths cup 
Two slices whole wheat bread 
Butter, two tablespoons 
Baked apple, one large 
Cream, thin, one-half cup 
Sugar, one tablespoon (scant) 

117 



“Dame Curtsey’s’’ Beauty Talks 


BREAKFAST 
Prunes, one dish 

Cereal with milk or cream and sugar 

One egg 

Two slices buttered toast 

One cup coffee with cream and sugar or one cup cocoa 

LUNCHEON 

Cream soup, one cup 
Salad with mayonnaise dressing 
One buttered roll 
Pudding with cream 

DINNER 

Scalloped potatoes, one cup 
Buttered beets, one-half cup 
Lettuce and tomato salad 
Boiled custard, one cup 
Cookies, two 

Rouge 

If one just keeps her ears and eyes open there is 
often the text for a “Beauty Talk” to be found in 
the most unexpected places. I have just heard that 
they are not wearing rouge now in New York, for 
a most disturbed young woman announced the fact 
to her friend in the elevator of one of the depart¬ 
ment stores. “Oh, dear,” she exclaimed, after tell¬ 
ing the tragic news, “ I don’t know what I am going 
to do for I look a perfect fright without it.” 

118 



Health and Information 


And I wanted to say, “Well, if you look any 
worse without it than you do with it, heaven save 
the mark.” If the news is true that it is becoming 
passe to appear like a whited sepulchre outlined in 
red it will be the best thing that ever happened to 
the younger generation, who are fast ruining their 
naturally fresh complexions with indiscriminate ap¬ 
plications of powder and rouge. 

All this makes me think of the late William E. 
Curtis, whose daily travel article appeared for so 
many years in a morning paper. He said he was 
marooned once upon a time at a wayside station in 
Kansas with not a living soul in sight but the erst¬ 
while combination agent and telegraph operator, 
“ and I got,” said this genial writer, “ a dandy story 
on weeds.” 

I can, in imagination, hear some of our young 
readers say, “I know 4 Dame Curtsey’ must be a 
back number, not a bit up with the style.” Not true, 
I assure you, but I wish those who fly to the rouge 
pot and powder box would take a few lessons in 
expert decorating, since it can be done artistically. 
Then I do not object, provided all traces are reli¬ 
giously removed each night. The wise artist in facial 
decoration knows that the contour may be really 
changed by wearing a bit of rouge high up and quite 
far back on the cheeks to add breadth to a very thin 


119 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


face; applied lower down and near the nose an ap¬ 
parently long line is the result. After all, the appli¬ 
cation of artificial means to make one beautiful is 
largely an individual matter and it is difficult to 
abide by hard and fast rules. The new powders 
that come in compact forms to fit vanity cases are 
much more sanitary than the loose variety that was 
always getting spilled over dark suits, its use al¬ 
ways so in evidence. And right here is a good place 
to register my dislike of completing the toilet in 
public; a business man said to me recently, “I was 
told as a young man that one’s finger nails should 
never be cleaned in public. In those days one did 
not have manicures, but nowadays young women 
seem to think nothing of giving their hands this 
needed attention on the way down to business on 
the street cars and suburban trains. In fact, I have 
it figured out just how many blocks each finger 
requires.” 

True, a perfectly groomed hand is a much desired 
adjunct to beauty and a man who employs many 
young women says he begins his observation with 
the finger nails, feeling sure that if they are well 
kept the would-be employee is careful of details and 
neat. But doing the fingers in public is on a par with 
picking one’s teeth, and we are certain that no well- 
bred person is guilty of that misdemeanor. 


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Health and Information 


Fashions in faces are evidently changing, but that 
doesn’t mean that rouge and powder are to be ta¬ 
booed, only that their use is to be carefully con¬ 
cealed and the result will be the daintiness that 
comes with the moderate application of both. There 
are many alluring cases which hold powder, rouge 
of red rice powder (chemically harmless), lip stick, 
eyebrow pencil and beauty spots, all packed so clev¬ 
erly that the case takes almost no space in the hand 
bag. 

Poison Ivy 

Poison ivy is so prevalent and some people are so 
keenly sensitive to its very presence, that I feel every 
child should be taught to recognize it instantly from 
its harmless neighbor, the woodbine or Virginia 
creeper. Of course, the boy and girl scouts are 
working a wonderful change for the better in our 
young people; they know how to care for themselves 
outdoors and they know the simple remedies to alle¬ 
viate suffering, and the wise lad or lassie may be 
perfectly familiar with all I am telling you today. 

Please all remember that ivy of the poison type 
always has three leaves in a group on the stem and 
not five, and it is most deadly when damp with dew 
or after a rain. After being infected, the first aid 
is to wash the hands or wherever the touch has been 


121 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


with soap and water and a rinse off with alcohol if 
possible. Use a hand brush to scrub clean as can 
be made; this is only possible before the irritation 
has set in — afterwards contact with brush or alco¬ 
hol would be too painful. The intense itching may 
be made endurable by sponging with witch hazel, 
dry off and dust with pure talcum. Salves do not 
help much, and if the washing gives no relief the 
only safe thing is to go to the best doctor. 

As a last bit of advice for hot weather sufferers, 
remember to live as evenly as possible. By this I 
mean try not to get (in common parlance) rattled; 
it is deadly to the digestion and to the blood. Keep 
cool by all legitimate means; that is, draw the shades 
and close the windows during the day, take a tepid 
bath night and morning, drink plenty of tastefully 
cool water or unsweetened lemonade, wear light 
and loose clothing and protect face, hands and arms 
from the sun. 

Keeping a Sylph-Like Figure 

A noted doctor says: “I am convinced that two 
of the great factors in getting fat are irregularity 
of the sleeping hours and, particularly, the loss of 
sleep due to improper use of the evening. Culti¬ 
vate proper sleeping habits and you will add fatness 
to your length of days and leanness to your figure.” 


123 



Health and Information 


There is many a woman, and even the young girl, 
who is burdened by too many pounds. The longing 
to be sylph-like and willowy seems to be inborn 
among the many descendants of Mother Eve, and 
what is the beauty specialist to do? I must quote 
the following sentence by a noted physician, who 
says: “if we treat our bodies properly they will 
not be fat, but will be fit.” I am appalled by the 
number who must treat their precious bodies im¬ 
properly. 

It is a recognized fact that overweight not only 
ruins the figure, but takes off much time from our 
allotted span on this earth. Did you ever think 
that he (or she) who dances must pay the fiddler? 
If you are too busy or too lazy (I mean that lit¬ 
erally) to take the time for regular exercise, walk¬ 
ing, golf, tennis, swimming, horseback riding or 
whatever you can do, to take time for regular sleep, 
for normal eating and for the requisite bathing, why, 
you alone pay the penalty of overweight, bad skin 
and a general sluggishness of mind and body that 
is distressing to you and to your friends, especially 
your immediate family. 

All berries and fruits should be eaten without 
sugar, and I am giving a short list of foodstuffs 
that are filling but not fattening: Melons, bran 
bread and muffins, cold chicken, cottage cheese, cel- 


123 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


ery, string beans and young cabbage, any of the 
fruit and vegetable salads dressed with lemon juice, 
vinegar and a very little oil (no mayonnaise), but¬ 
termilk, broiled fish, a limited amount of broiled 
bacon (two or three slices at one meal), cold tongue, 
any jellied meats, like veal, tongue or chicken. All 

TABLE OF WOMEN’S WEIGHT ACCORDING TO HEIGHT 
AND VARYING AGES 

Based on Figures from Symond’s Life Insurance Examinations 


15-24 

25-29 

30-34 

35-39 

40-44 

45-49 

50-54 

55-59 

60-64 

o. .113 

119 

123 

128 

132 

134 

134 

134 

131 

1. .115 

120 

124 

128 

133 

136 

136 

136 

134 

2. .117 

122 

126 

130 

135 

138 

138 

138 

137 

3..120 

125 

129 

133 

138 

141 

141 

141 

140 

4..124 

129 

133 

137 

142 

144 

145 

145 

144 

5..127 

132 

136 

140 

145 

147 

149 

149 

148 

6. .131 

136 

140 

144 

149 

151 

153 

153 

153 

7 • • I 35 

141 

145 

149 

154 

156 

158 

158 

158 

8. .139 

MS 

149 

154 

159 

161 

163 

163 

163 

9-143 

149 

154 

159 

164 

166 

167 

168 

168 

10..147 

153 

159 

164 

169 

171 

172 

173 

174 

11. .152 

158 

164 

170 

174 

177 

177 

178 

180 


These weights are calculated to include ordinary clothing and 
the average weight of a woman’s costume without heavy coat is 
from 5 to 8 lbs., varying according to kind of shoes and gown worn. 

green vegetables, like chard, spinach, tomatoes or 
radishes are fine. Fruit water ices are deliciously 
refreshing and not fattening like the rich ice creams 
and custards. Remember to bathe often and to 
exercise as much as possible after the sun sets and 
not to become over fatigued. It is hard, I know, 


124 





Health and Information 


for young people to learn these lessons, but it is a 
case of eternal vigilance from start to finish, and 
only those who pay the price win the rewards of 
slender figures and good complexions. 

General Beauty Talk 

We should all endeavor to make ourselves as 
pleasing in appearance as possible to our fellow- 
men (and women). Let me quote a noted special¬ 
ist who says: “Two important elements of comeli¬ 
ness, if not of positive beauty, are somewhat under 
our command, viz.: the complexion and the expres¬ 
sion of the face.” To be well nourished, the blood 
must be in a healthful condition, as the skin is espe¬ 
cially susceptible to any internal disarrangement; 
that is why outward salves, lotions and creams do 
very little good without good health. 

So it is plain to see that there must be a rational 
basis upon which to build the foundation for a 
peaches and cream complexion—there must be tem¬ 
perance in eating, drinking, exercise and a sane 
method of living adopted. This same authority 
states that any person who has a nervous, peevish 
disposition and does not strive to overcome it will 
invariably have a sallow, unattractive skin with dark 
circles under the eyes. Doesn’t this go to prove that 
the Good Book is right when it says, “A merry heart 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


doeth good like a medicine,” and that “as a man 
thinketh so is he?” I venture to say that not many 
of us have ever thought that a good complexion 
largely depended upon the mental side of our make¬ 
ups. 

Cleanliness is a cosmetic that brings beauty and 
health, as the glands of the skin constantly secrete 
and excrete watery and oily liquids which if per¬ 
mitted to accumulate upon the surface soon de¬ 
compose and clog the pores. So these excretions 
need constant removal, especially in hot weather. 
Pure soap and water must be used generously and 
often. As the dirt accumulates (and a few hours 
will leave a grimy surface if in the city) it must be 
removed. 

If young girls who indulge in rouge and powder 
only realized what ills they are laying up for them¬ 
selves I am sure the vanity case would not be the 
necessity they think it is. A young, fresh skin does 
not need any artificial embellishing. It is for those 
who have reached middle age and beyond who often 
make a better appearance by a judicious use of pow¬ 
der and rouge, and the art of applying either should 
be carefully studied. 

In summer for those who can stand it, the cold 
bath with a vigorous rubdown is a skin tonic and a 
grateful refresher, especially if taken at night; it 
126 



Health and Information 


produces rest and often sleep if one is troubled with 
insomnia. In winter the tepid bath has the same 
effect. 

Beauty and Our Nerves 

Did you ever stop to think how “nerves” are 
given the blame for nearly every ill that flesh is heir 
to? We blame bad temper to “nerves” when in 
many instances such outbursts come from lack of 
self-control in adults as well as in children. How 
often we hear mothers discuss their offspring in 
their presence as “being so nervous,” as if excus¬ 
ing themselves to others for their giving in when 
nagged to have this or that. Very early in the 
game mere infants in arms learn that by a certain 
amount of screaming they will get their heart’s de¬ 
sire and so the seeds of troubles are laid for both 
mother and child. 

A mother for whom I have profound respect, 
as she has raised two beautiful girls to full woman¬ 
hood, said once: “I never punish except after a 
nap and on a full stomach, in that way I am sure 
that the naughtiness is pure deviltry and a desire 
(innate in us all) to get our own way by fair means 
or foul.” 

No less an authority than Dr. Thomas Clark 
Hinkle, who calls “nerves” the universal Ameri- 


127 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


can disease, says the remedy is so simple that very 
few of us will have the patience to effect a cure. 
That is to eat the proper food in the proper way. 
If we all did that there would be no need for books 
on “Beauty Talks,” for there would be no more 
blackheads, pimples, bad complexions or skinny 
bones to be covered or extra pounds to be worked 
off. Of course, there would probably be bad cases 
of sunburn, tan and freckles, a few hair wails and 
some almost hysterical appeals from young girls 
whose eyelashes are not the requisite length and 
whose eyebrows are not properly arched, but they 
are minor details. 

One rule this noted specialist lays down is that 
all food must be masticated until the consistency of 
cream, and all liquids must be sipped slowly. At 
a glance this shows that the hastily bolted luncheon, 
gulped down with copious swallows of iced water or 
some iced beverage, is the first step in the wrong 
direction, yet it is a universal habit. It is better 
to go hungry than to hurry through eating “ against 
time,” as it were. This is a hard lesson to learn; 
American children hurry to school, hurry back for 
hurried luncheon, and this “hurry” habit goes on 
week after week. The business men and women 
carry out the same program and the result is that 
doctors’ offices are swamped with nervous cases. 

128 




Health and Information 


Most of them cannot or will not take time to cure 
themselves, with the result that statistics from a 
large life insurance company say that the life of the 
average American man or woman is only forty- 
three years. Why? Because he and she eats what 
they want rather than what is best for them. That 
is the price that is paid for hurry and thoughtless 
eating. 

For nervous temperaments an almost meatless 
diet is best and for some, eggs are not good; well- 
chewed vegetables, plenty of water sipped between 
meals, a limited allowance of weak tea and coffee 
and only a small portion of candy or sugar. Regu¬ 
lar exercise taken so as not to feel real fatigue and 
at least eight or nine hours of sleep. Try these sim¬ 
ple rules for the next three months, then do not give 
up the good work, but continue until your life’s end, 
which I hope will be much longer than “ forty- 
three.” 

Molding the Young Girl’s Figure 

Shall she or shall she not wear them? “She” is 
the bonny lassie just turning fifteen with all the de¬ 
sire that comes with that age to be grown up in- 
stanter, and “them” means corsets, of course. How 
the girl has longed to discard the hated corset waists 
and how eager she is (till she wears them) to own 


129 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


one of those alluring models displayed for the edifi¬ 
cation of passersby in the downtown shop windows. 

You see, I speak feelingly. I remember watch¬ 
ing my elders dressing for parties and those cruel 
torturing creations, high of bust, nipped in at the 
waist and as heavily armored as a battleship, fas¬ 
tened around their waists, and the maid (we had 
those feminine creatures in those days) drawing in 
the laces to the required tightness, and then how 
she tugged at the inner waistbands of those boned 
and pointed bodices. Nowadays when I realize how 
women’s bodies were actually tortured I cannot see 
how they ever consumed the ten and twelve course 
dinners to which they were invited. 

Perhaps I wouldn’t have chosen corsets for 
my theme if I had not been going through an old 
wardrobe and discovered several pairs belonging to 
my maternal ancestor, all brocaded coutil, stiff and 
invincible as the Medes’ and Persians’ ironclad laws. 
No wonder that our mothers kept us in the much- 
hated corset waists as long as possible. 

Now, praise be, we think just as much of having 
our corset fitted individually as we do of our shoes 
and gloves, and “Polly” goes to have her little 
girdles and “baby” corsets fitted with the same reg¬ 
ularity as she is sent to the dentist or hair dresser. 
Medical science has been called into consultation and 

130 



Health and Information 


heartily approves of the well-fitted and adjusted cor¬ 
set. It not only helps, but aids the human figure and 
gives support where necessary. Trained nurses are 
employed in many establishments to make the fit¬ 
tings and the wise woman no more thinks of buying 
a corset without fitting than she would of buying her 
shoes without trying them on. Some authorities 
consider a front laced model is most sane and 
healthful as it is adjusted to the figure each time it 
is put on, and is always laced from the bottom up, 
thus keeping the natural outline and never pressing 
down on parts that should have no pressure as is 
done with the back lace corset. 

In fact, the modern corset has very little to do 
with the body above the waistline, the well-fitted 
brassiere supported from the shoulders does that 
and the material used is light in weight and porous. 

In well-equipped corset shops each customer has 
a record of her purchases, so at a glance the fitter 
can see just what she has been wearing. These 
records are much like the ones an oculist keeps of 
the eyeglasses worn by his patients. So if “ Polly” 
and “Susy” are going away to school this year, do 
not hesitate to let them have the dainty pink gir¬ 
dles for which they are longing. Take them to be 
properly fitted and rest your mind in peace, remem¬ 
bering that corsets are not what they once were, 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


neither do they do the damage they once did. Now¬ 
adays they are far more elastic and the pinched 
hour-glass figure is gone. 

Let Bust Alone 

Enlarging the busts is a slow process of building 
up the entire system by a careful diet and exercise; 
and some people are naturally small. Massage is 
to be avoided, as there is always danger of injuring 
the delicate glands. 

How to Reduce 

Reducing the bust without injury to the deli¬ 
cate glands and muscles is a slow process. Daily 
exercising with Indian clubs and chest weights help; 
also the wearing of a close-fitting rubber brassiere 
to cause abundant perspiration will aid in breaking 
the fatty tissues. Gentle massage with spirits of 
camphor is a helpful application. A strict diet of 
fruits, watery vegetables, toasted breads with little 
or no butter, very little sweets of any kind, broiled 
meats, no fried dishes or pastries, will aid in re¬ 
ducing. It is a slow but sure process. To reduce 
the legs, try this exercise: Hold the knee stiff, then 
raise the leg as high as you possibly can without 
bending backwards, hold for twenty seconds, then 
gradually let the leg down. Do this with the other 


132 



Health and Information 


leg. From repeating this five times, add to the num¬ 
ber until you can do it twenty times in succession. 

Lines about the mouth that are displeasing usu¬ 
ally come from holding the mouth badly. Try to 
keep smiling, whether you feel like it or not. Grad¬ 
ually drooping lines disappear and happier ones 
come. All this transformation takes time and pa¬ 
tience. 

Care of the Nails 

Peroxide, if used often, will make the nails brit¬ 
tle, so it should be used only once or twice a week 
(to remove discolorations). Olive oil or vaseline 
when rubbed into the nails will prevent them from 
breaking, but if they are softening it shows a dis¬ 
eased condition and a specialist should be consulted. 

For Chapped Skin 

A very simple remedy, much in favor with moth¬ 
ers a generation ago and equally good now, is mut¬ 
ton tallow for the baby’s face and hands. Try out 
some mutton suet, strain through cheesecloth and 
add a few drops of perfume if you wish. Warm 
slightly and apply. Often the heat in the fingers is 
sufficient to melt it, so it may be gently rubbed in. 
Another recipe which is most efficacious: 

Mutton suet, 3 parts; lanolin, 6 parts; boric pow¬ 
der, 1 part. Melt suet and lanolin. Add boric pow- 


133 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


der, stir lightly until cool. Pour into moulds to 
harden. Hot Weat her Diet 

There must be a plentiful supply of fruit and 
water vegetables and an abundance of water taken 
between meals if one is afraid of adding an extra 
pound or two by taking it with the repast. Avoid 
much meat and pastry; and candy, along with ice 
cream sodas, should be rare indulgences. Hard 
lines, do I hear you say? Well, beauty is a task 
mistress stern in her demands. 

To Make Face Smaller 

Do your hair softly back from your face, not 
tightly, but without any buns over your ears. This 
tends to make the face look much narrower and 
done high on the head is often very becoming. It 
is impossible actually to reduce the size of your face 
and no amount of dieting will change a large foun¬ 
dation; in other words, large bones. 

Hygiene for Children 

Having just read the paragraph quoted below and 
it being exactly my sentiment, I hope it will give 
every mother who reads this food for thought. 
“The amount of work sitting still, etc., exacted of 
the girl is not consistent with her health during her 
growing time. Without going into particulars as 
134 



Health and Information 


to the influences injurious to the health of growing 
children, which proceed from their homes or may 
be brought out in connection with the school and 
school work, it is still manifest that the burden of 
work that children have to bear, under the present 
school regulations, far exceeds what is permissible 
and is, to a large extent, responsible for the liabil¬ 
ity of school children to illness.” So says Professor 
Key, a prominent Swedish doctor, who is much in¬ 
terested in the necessity for physical relaxation for 
the young girl. 

True, nearly every school nowadays gives some 
form of regular, supervised period for exercise; be¬ 
sides the recess and playgrounds are becoming more 
and more prevalent, but there are still many chil¬ 
dren and many mothers who until their attention is 
called to it are unmindful of just what training 
“Jenny” and “Mary” are having, not only in 
school, but at home. Children are influenced, not 
by nagging, but by instilling into a young child’s 
mind, the necessity of physical care in order to 
achieve not only “ a good time,” but beauty. 

If every child is taught that a toothbrush used 
after every meal is just as important as the meal it¬ 
self, then the ensuing ills following bad teeth would 
be few and far between. Don’t you see how this 
all leads to beauty? Then every child (girl or boy) 


135 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


should be taught to walk upstairs holding the body 
erect, not bent over like a hoop, and to take good 
deep breaths, exhaling slowly through the nostrils. 
This makes for a good complexion and saves loads 
of ills later on. 

Very few people ever use their lung capacity and 
very few, until some bodily ill overtakes them, think 
of just how they walk, sit or stand. That is why 
all of a sudden we are surprised to find one hip a 
bit higher than the other, one shoulder up a mite 
(it is usually our tailor or seamstress who discov¬ 
ers these little defects for us), then we remember 
that favorite slouch on one foot, sitting with one 
foot under, crossing one knee over the other or 
walking with the heel coming down good and hard 
first, instead of last. 

Oh, yes, we all do these things, our shoes show 
it, and our bodies show it, but that is no reason 
our children should be allowed to acquire the same 
habits, and they will unless trained to other habits. 
I am in favor of universal military training, not only 
for boys, but for girls of the same age and every 
organization of “Scouts,” masculine or feminine, 
is a step toward mature beauty for the youth of our 
land. 

There is a subtle way of handling the growing 
girl who is so full of whims and fancies, so set on 

136 



Health and Information 


having her very own sweet way to regret later on. 
A clever mother induced her twelve-year-old daugh¬ 
ter to drink the milk so necessary to her by care¬ 
fully showing her just why milk was required to 
build muscle and tissue requisite to “make the 
basket-ball team.” When she went to high school, 
this mother also told her just why it was best for her 
to walk to school instead of letting the car take her. 
Youngsters do not stop to think of the why and the 
wherefore unless this is explained to them, but I 
never saw a girl yet who wasn’t keen to do the right 
thing when her vanity was appealed to. Unless 
there is something organically wrong, there is no 
reason why the much-longed-for “peaches and 
cream ” complexion should not exist. 

Once again, my sermon ends with a plea to the 
mothers to supervise carefully the fitting of the very 
first shoes to the tender little feet, to see that the 
first garters do not bind in any way, that the first 
underwaists do not pull on the shoulders, that skirts 
and trousers do not bind too tightly at the band or 
in the crotch, and above all to see that there is rest 
period after a vigorous play time. 

“Hikes” 

Just a word of caution, as some of my readers 
may be tempted to rise betimes and go on walks 
137 



‘‘Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


(“hikes,” my young friends call them) before 
breakfast. This is a bad thing and does not secure 
the best results or give the fine appetite it is sup¬ 
posed to give. To quote a famous physician, “the 
body being a machine, it needs to be supplied with 
fuel, and if not furnished with it, will draw from 
the body to supply the necessary muscular energy. 
So after exercise, the power of digestion is not as 
good in the individual who thus indulges him¬ 
self.” 

Rubber-heeled shoes, a comfortable elastic girdle 
in lieu of the regular corset, trim skirt and smock 
or a one-piece frock, a broad-brimmed, light weight 
hat and wash gloves are the best attire. Then a 
brisk walk for an hour will make for real health 
which will mean real beauty. While the weather 
is fine every one of us should be laying up strength 
and energy for the winter when we are all more or 
less tried by the vagaries of our changeable climate. 
So get out, ye readers who have accumulated a bit 
too much of a waistline, and get back the desired 
trimness, and elasticity of step. Let children eat 
plenty of fresh vegetables and fruits and a minimum 
of meats, pastries and other heavy foods. Candies 
and sugar are heat and energy producers, and the 
children must go lightly on such food. Ice cream 
has real food value, but should be eaten alone and 
138 



Health and Information 


not after a meal, as it chills the digestive tract and 
retards digestion. 

Concerning 64 Make-Up” 

The eternal feminine is a subject as old as time 
yet absolutely new each day. In fact, one mascu¬ 
line member of society said that a woman was a 
riddle, the answer to which was as puzzling today 
as when God created Adam. Be that as it may, 
we are sure that if it were not for the feminine part 
of creation most magazine editors would be bank¬ 
rupt. No matter how highbrow we start out to be 
there isn’t one of us but either openly or surrepti¬ 
tiously turns to the “woman’s” page without which 
no great daily paper is complete, or waits for her 
favorite magazine and turns first to her most looked 
for department. 

“Beauty” in my understanding of it must come 
from within. I will help you all I can with remedies 
for the exterior, but one of our noted physicians 
says (beauty specialists to the contrary) that there 
is really no skin food, that the foundation of a good 
clear complexion comes from right living, with one’s 
day divided so that there is just the right amount 
of exercise, of work and of recreation, with the 
right diet, and last but not least, right bathing and 
rubbing. 


139 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


Did you ever see a young child or baby who did 
not have a soft skin, radiant color, clear eyes? I 
mean, of course, a child in normal health. There 
is no reason for grown-ups not having good com¬ 
plexions if they take one-half the care of themselves 
that their mothers did of them when they were 
babies. 

And that brings me right to a most up-to-date 
topic, that of the omnipresent make-up and the 
make-up box. Nowadays it is an open secret that 
every other person who wears petticoats (I make 
no exceptions as to age) may be seen carrying a 
large or small vanity case. It may be a separate 
container carried with the pocketbook or it may be 
concealed for the time being in the shopping bag; 
it may be of gold, silver or enamel or it may be 
just in a shop box, but there will be sure to be a 
cake of powder (it does not fluff all over like the 
loose kind) and frequently a cake of rouge and an 
eyebrow brush or pencil. A far cry from the faith¬ 
ful old chamois we used to carry concealed in our 
purse or in our gown and only used privately when 
we hoped no one was looking, or if seen we mod¬ 
estly explained that “ our nose did get so shiny.” 

Now, there seems to be nothing shocking about 
a young woman completing her make-up and even 
her manicuring upon the elevated road, in a taxi, in 

140 



Health and Information 


an elevator or any place where she may feel so in¬ 
clined to finish or “touch up” the job. But al¬ 
though the public toilet making may no longer be 
shocking, it does remain a bit vulgar and the sort 
of thing a really careful woman does not counte¬ 
nance. 

Really, I do believe if some of the young women 
whom we see on the streets could just for one mo¬ 
ment see themselves as others see them that they 
would rush to the nearest washbowl, rub off the 
powder and rouge and start all over again, for their 
appearance is awful. Yes, I mean it, and I wish I 
could spell this whole talk out in capitals. Do not 
mistake me, I am not against powder, rouge, eye¬ 
brow pencil or any of the implements and emol¬ 
lients used for those who need them, but the aver¬ 
age fresh-complexioned young girl looks better with 
only a touch of powder and no rouge. For the col¬ 
orless complexion and the elderly, sallow face, rouge 
may be better than the natural coloring. But don’t 
get an idea you can put the color on and have no¬ 
body know it. Heavy paint and powder are self¬ 
confession of poor complexion — or poor taste. If 
you must employ the aid of cosmetics, I do wish 
their service could be employed so artistically, so 
naturally that girls and mature women would not 
look like clowns just out of a circus ring, and that 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


public places would not be utilized as impromptu 
boudoirs. 

It’s so easy to overdo it. In the first place the 
neck must be clean, the face ditto, then rub in care¬ 
fully the best cold cream the market affords, dust 
lightly and evenly with a powder that suits your col¬ 
oring. Then if you are naturally high colored 
either do without rouge or see that the eyelids and 
chin receive a bit of rouge too, and not just a dab 
on the cheek bones. Perhaps the least harmful 
rouge is a nice little cake of red rice powder. 

At night wash the face in warm soapy water, rinse 
in two tepid waters, then dash icy cold water all 
over the face and neck and dry on a soft absorbent 
towel. 

Wrinkles 

Now for the “Wrinkles” — yes, I spelled it with 
a capital on purpose, for I am sure it is a topic of 
interest to all of us, and I am going to begin with 
a true story of a once very prominent society leader 
in Chicago (now passed away with her husband 
where I am certain wrinkles do not trouble her). 
She was traveling abroad and sat for her portrait to 
a very famous artist in Diisseldorf who had just 
painted the picture of a then famous empress. Her 
instructions were not to paint in even one wrinkle. 


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Health and Information 


The work was finished and eventually arrived at 
her home and her son upon seeing it exclaimed, “A 
lovely picture, but not like you, Mother. Where 
are the wrinkles? ” 

Some time afterward the artist was in Chicago 
and one of his first commissions was “ to paint in 
the wrinkles.” All this leads up to the fact that 
years do leave their mark on our faces, but our 
daily care must be seeing that we do not help time 
along by unconsciously putting in lines and marks 
that age never intended. 

Here is an opportunity for mothers to watch 
their children and stop any scowling, any grotesque 
grimacing, or keeping the lines of the face tense 
during study or work. Very fine lines will result 
and in a comparatively short time real wrinkles will 
result, and oh, what a task to get rid of them. 

People who are very blonde or with extremely 
thin and delicate skins will wrinkle very young, and 
this applies rather to women than men, so it is not 
uncommon to find women under thirty with quite 
pronounced lines. I do not mean crow’s feet, for 
they are really a mark of age or excessive wrong 
handling of the eyes. 

Did you ever watch a person who had the habit 
of elevating her eyebrows in transverse folds? Of 
course she was perfectly unaware that she was lin- 


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“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


ing her forehead with indelible seams that it would 
take months of sticking plasters to eradicate. 

When Father Time gives us a few (very few) 
softening lines, let us accept them as our due, but 
by striving in every way to retain good health and 
a placid mind, we can ward off wrinkles until almost 
three score years and then some. 

Waists Normal and Abnormal 

Every so often we hear someone sigh regretfully 
for “ the good old days,” especially when deploring 
some condition which seems abnormally bad. As 
I watched a group of girls playing tennis whom I 
had earlier in the season watched at basket-ball, I 
wondered if in the so-called good old days of our 
grandmothers whether we could have duplicated 
within a hundred miles a group of such splendidly 
developed young girls. In those days it was the 
nipped in waist that won admiration, veritable 
wasps. No matter how large the hips, how over¬ 
developed the bust, if the waist could be spanned 
with two hands and the corset was only sixteen or 
eighteen inches, the height of elegance had been 
achieved by the possessor of such a figure. 

How often as a mere child I have listened to all 
too stout dowagers, panting and gasping at the least 
exertion as they murmured, “When I was married 


144 



Health and Information 

I wore a number so and so corset, glove and shoe,” 
and I remember thinking what a very curious effect 
middle age had, and wondered if weight were a 
penalty one paid for growing older. Then, as now, 
I always abhorred superfluous fat. 

How much better the modern girls. Many of 
them never think of wearing a corset, they are so 
magnificently built they need no extra support and 
have no excess flesh and are sound of body and mind. 

Recently I went shopping with a young college 
girl, who bought low, broad shoes, bloomers (she 
only wore petticoats under thin summer dresses) 
and an elastic girdle, which constituted her “cor¬ 
set.” Now that an almost normal dress has been 
established among our school girls, it is not likely 
they ever will want any other style. Exercise is now 
the keynote to clear thinking and good work in 
school, as safeguarded athletics have come to stay. 
All this is going to make for the health and beauty 
of the coming generation. Exercise will keep down 
flesh that one is apt to acquire through inaction, but 
there is a right and a wrong way to exercise. It 
should not be taken immediately after a meal and 
one must be properly dressed, so as to have abso¬ 
lute freedom of all the muscles, and one’s feet must 
be comfortably shod. Early in the morning or two 
hours after a meal is the best time for exercise. To 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


be efficacious, exercise must be regularly taken. 
Just spurts at irregular intervals do not count. I 
have heard people say with a most virtuous air, “ I 
walked five miles today,” and that five miles prob¬ 
ably lasted as the sum total of exercise taken for 
five weeks or five months. 

After stated exercise there should be a bath and 
a rest, and by rest I mean at least half an hour of 
undisturbed repose if not actual sleep. Perfect re¬ 
laxation is an art to be acquired, and once acquired 
never to be forgotten, for by it the body with its 
delicately constructed mechanism hoards up energy 
not to be acquired in any other way. 

Relaxation and concentration are two of the 
greatest aids we have to assist us on our strenuous 
path, for life is strenuous, and unless we are fitted 
for the battle we will surely fall by the wayside. 

Necessary Sleep 

The number of hours to be spent in slumber de¬ 
pends much on the individual and much on age; 
youth requires far more sleep than age. Statistics 
show that the sleep required by the average person 
is eight or nine hours. If any time is lost it must 
be made up, and until nature has been satisfied the 
brain will not clear nor the muscles of the body feel 
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Health and Information 


rested. Hours for sleep must be systematized, the 
same as hours for work, recreation and for eating. 

Mothers should be impressed with the knowledge 
that sleep is one of the essentials for a fine skin; 
one doctor says that nine, ten or twelve hours is 
none too much for an adolescent and eight hours 
should be the adult allowance and I fear I will break 
a popular tradition when I say that sleep before ten 
p. m., the so-called beauty potion advocated by our 
grandmothers, is no more efficacious than repose 
gained at any other time of the night. A sleep that 
is dreamless, peaceful and quiet makes for beauty 
of the most telling kind, produces refreshment of 
body and mind, brightens the eye and brings a bloom 
impossible to obtain with any artificial pigment. 

To Gain a Svelte Waist-Line 

The only safe way to reduce the waist is by regu¬ 
lar exercise and a rigid diet, and that is just what 
most people will not do religiously and conscien¬ 
tiously. You need not starve, but you must get up 
from the table wishing you could eat more; that is, 
you will feel that way because you have probably 
been accustomed to eating to your very uttermost 
capacity. Try morning and night to bend over, 
knees rigid, and try to touch the floor with the fin¬ 
gertips. Do this for five minutes. Walk five miles 


147 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


a day, half in the morning and half in the afternoon 
if you wish. For breakfast you may have unsweet¬ 
ened grapefruit or orange juice, no cereal, one or 
two eggs cooked any way but fried or scrambled. 
Coffee or tea with no sugar. You may put two tea¬ 
spoons of boiled milk in it, no cream. One slice 
of toasted rye or bran bread. For luncheon, one 
slice of cold lean meat, a vegetable salad with vine¬ 
gar dressing, slice of any bread save white, butter¬ 
milk, tea or coffee as at breakfast. For dinner any 
clear soup, a broiled bit of steak or lamb chop, any 
vegetable salad or plain celery or stewed tomatoes, 
fruit or a fruit gelatine and beverages as prescribed 
above. You see the diet omits creamy soups, pas¬ 
tries, and candy and fried dishes. 

Dieting 

“ Everybody’s doing it,” said a spry young woman 
as she stepped on to the train with me the other 
night. “Doing what?” asked I, as I settled down 
beside her and folded the evening paper, knowing 
that I would have no time to even glance it through, 
for this young woman is up to her eyes in political 
work and I felt sure I would hear the latest about 
my favorite candidate for presidential honor. 

“Why, dieting either to get fat or get thin and, 
can you believe it, Mrs. Blank, who weighs two 

148 



Health and Information 


hundred pounds if she does one, asked me today why 
I didn’t join a class in ballet and toe dancing.” 

All this leads me to write a few words for the 
benefit of many who are desirous of losing from 
one to fifty pounds, and those who complain bitterly 
that they are a sight when wearing the prevailing 
low necks because so thin, and each and all beg for 
remedies that will be instantly beneficial. 

Of course, there are folk who are very thin or 
very stout because “it runs in the family,” and for 
those, such tendencies are harder to overcome than 
for others, but all things are possible, or at least 
much may be accomplished toward the desired end 
by persistent dieting, exercising and by cultivating a 
cheerful mental attitude. 

In summer time it is much easier to make out 
menus for fat reducing, since there’s a temptation 
when going to market to indulge in the luscious fresh 
vegetables and fruits which must be a great part of 
the daily diet 

A noted physician deplores the fact that bicycling 
is out of fashion for, as he says, it was the best of 
all exercising for the spare person whose desire is 
to be daintily rounded, and for the man or woman 
with too much avoirdupois it is a splendid method 
of reducing corpulency and, withal, the best of seda¬ 
tives. 


149 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


If any readers really wish to reduce, it may be 
done, and at the same time if the regime is adhered 
to, they will find themselves not only better physi¬ 
cally but morally strengthened as well. From the 
standpoint of: “do one hard thing every day,” to 
follow a diet means doing a hard thing three times 
a day and in between times as well. 

Now here is what you may have for breakfast: 
a small grapefruit or a glass of unsweetened lemon¬ 
ade (the latter to be taken a half hour before the 
meal), a slice of rye, whole wheat or bran bread 
toast (unbuttered), a cup of coffee, preferably clear, 
and although two tablespoons of skimmed milk are 
permissible, no sugar is allowed. Let me give you 
a tip on the side: if the milk used in the coffee is 
heated you will scarcely miss the cream, as this is 
really the “cafe au lait” so beloved by the French. 
You may have one soft boiled egg or one slice of 
bacon. An hour after the meal, drink as much wa¬ 
ter as you wish. In fact, a gallon of water is none 
too much to consume during the day, including the 
glass or two at bedtime. For the midday repast 
either fruit or a cup of tomato bouillon, with two 
wafers or toasted croutons, lean beef, tomato or 
cucumber salad with French dressing, two slices of 
rye, bran or whole wheat bread lightly buttered, 
any green vegetable with salt (no butter or cream 



Health and Information 


sauce), tea with lemon. For dinner, any fish or 
lean meat (a small serving), any green vegetable 
(small portion), a lettuce or fruit salad with French 
dressing, gluten bread, fruit for dessert, black coffee 
(unsweetened). 

There you have an idea of what meals should be. 
With slight variations, this diet should be kept up 
for six weeks, coupled with all the exercise in the 
open air that it is possible to obtain, and daily simple 
bending movements like touching or trying to touch 
the floor without bending the knees. 

Red Nose 

The following is a remedy especially good for 
this annoying trouble: 

Acetate lead, 5 gr. 

Acetate zinc, 5 gr. 

Rose water, 2 oz. 

Mix and apply faithfully every night after washing 
the face. When going out in the day-time, especially 
in cold weather, it may be used, but powder over 
neatly with a simple powder of starch, arrowroot or 
rice. 

Removing Superfluous Hair 

If you apply equal parts of peroxide of hydro¬ 
gen and strong solution of ammonia regularly, the 
fuzz will gradually bleach and it will not be notice- 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


able. Many young girls make this delicate fuzz turn 
to heavy, disfiguring hairs by pulling them out in¬ 
stead of bleaching them. There is no remedy for 
removing superfluous hair permanently save by the 
application of the electric needle, and be careful to 
have one who thoroughly understands how to do the 
work. By this method the hair follicles are de¬ 
stroyed, and no fuzzers ever appear after being 
taken out by this process. 

Good Powders Not Harmful 

Very young girls should not need much beautify¬ 
ing. I do object to rouge, but on a very cold or a 
very hot day rice powder or a good talcum dusted 
on evenly does no harm. I think the way rouge 
and powder are misused (and you only have to walk 
a block to see atrocious examples) is a crime against 
womankind. I’m not a prude, but it takes an artist 
to touch up nature and if you will insist on doing it, 
take a few lessons of the best beauty specialist and 
find out how to do it properly. 

For Tall Girls 

Wear black evening gowns, fluffy and draped; 
avoid straight lines, they accentuate height. Don’t 


152 



Health and Information 


shun society and above all don’t be self-conscious. 
People like girls with charming manners, and try to 
remember there are many small girls who greatly 
crave to be tall. 

Removing Freckles 

Very thin skins usually will freckle. A harmless 
bleach is lemon juice or buttermilk; apply after the 
nightly face wash and leave on until morning; if this 
is inconvenient, leave on for a few hours. 

I would like to be more encouraging about 
freckles, for it is a difficult matter to fade the win¬ 
ter or all the year round variety. Summer freckles 
usually disappear with the passing of the warm 
weather and have faded entirely by spring. If you 
have a very fine, delicate skin, the following re¬ 
mover if used several times a day will help the pests 
on their way: 

A half dram of powdered borax, the same quan¬ 
tity of sugar, mixed with one ounce of lemon juice. 
If your skin is not exceedingly sensitive, you can try 
this: 

Muriate of ammonia, dr. 

Lavender water, i oz. 

Distilled water, 4 oz. 

Apply night and morning after washing and dry¬ 
ing the skin. 


153 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


After Bath Dusting Powder 

After the bath, here is a formula for an excellent 
dusting powder to use under the arms and on the 
feet, especially between the toes: 

Powdered alum, i oz. 

Powdered orris root, i oz. 

Powdered rice, 2 oz. 

Excessive Perspiration Lotion 

If there has been excessive perspiration during 
the day, before retiring dab this lotion on copiously: 

Boric acid, 1 dr. 

Rose water, 1 oz. 

Witch hazel, 2 oz. 

Remedy for Ringworm 

Ringworm is not uncommon, in fact many skin 
diseases come under that name. It is a sort of fun¬ 
gus growth, a parasite, and it may be communicated 
from one person to another. It may appear on va¬ 
rious parts of the body. A very simple and effica¬ 
cious treatment is a few applications of tincture of 
iodine. Consult a physician to get the exact strength 
to use, as some skins are too delicate to stand a 
strong solution. 


1 54 



Health and Information 


To Remove a Wen 

The little lump on the forehead that doesn’t hurt 
and seems to be not much larger than a pea, is un¬ 
doubtedly what is called a wen, in reality, a small, 
harmless tumor. There is no remedy, the only cure 
is a complete removal by incision. Only a local 
anesthetic is required. 

Re-forming the Nose 

I have known of many successful operations for 
facial imperfections. However, I have had no ex¬ 
perience and I never recommend any patent article. 
If you want to stand the discomfort of wearing the 
article that promises to change your nose into the 
shape you desire, I advise that you consult your doc¬ 
tor to see if there would be anything harmful in 
wearing the apparatus. 

The Personality of Odors 

Speaking of odors makes me think again of our 
grandmothers and how they loved musk, lemon ver¬ 
bena and old-fashioned eau de cologne without 
which no lady’s toilet was complete. Now a strong 
odor is considered vulgar and to achieve just an 
extremely delicate perfume is indeed a fine art. 

Let me tell you again about my young matron 


155 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


whom I really adore, as she is so sensible, so clever, 
I wish the world was full of others like her. 

Whenever she enters a room, or you pass her on 
the street there is a breath of something indescrib¬ 
ably sweet and here is how she does it. Every 
drawer in her dresser, her chiffonier, her wardrobe 
trunk, has a sachet made from crepe paper in the 
bottom, the two layers encasing a very thin lining 
of sheet wadding on which violet sachet powder and 
orris root are plentifully sprinkled. The edges are 
run together with either wool-embroidery, cotton or 
baby-ribbon, whichever she happens to have handy. 
These last about six months and are then renewed. 
Her linen closet has sweet lavender on each shelf 
and also in the drawers encasing her best sheets and 
pillowcases. 

Enlarged Pores 

Some astringent wash like two-thirds witch hazel 
and one-third water or equal parts of alcohol and 
water will help to close the pores. Bathe the face 
in warm, soapy water to remove the dust and grime 
of the day, rinse with cold water. Then iron the 
face with a bit of ice wrapped in a clean cloth or 
dash icy cold water on two or three times. Wipe 
the face with a good, pure cold cream, remove 
gently with a soft cloth. 


156 



Health and Information 


Have the druggist make a lotion of equal parts 
of ether and soap liniment; being careful not to get 
it in the eyes, rub it gently and thoroughly into the 
skin, let it stay on for an hour, then wash off with 
warm, soapy water, then rinse thoroughly with clear, 
lukewarm water, turning it to cold to help close the 
pores. The face must be clean before applying the 
lotion and dabbed dry. 

TOILET POWDER FOR THE NURSERY 

Talcum, n av. oz. 

Salicylic acid, 165 gr. 

Boric acid, 1 % av. oz. 


Recipe for Hand Lotion 

Some people cannot use glycerine on the skin, and 
for those who cannot the following emollient is sug¬ 
gested, especially when the hands are inclined to 
chap : 

Benzoinated suet, 3 parts. 

Lanolin, 6 parts. 

Boric acid powder, 1 part. 

Melt suet; add lanolin. When melted, add boric 
acid. Allow to harden, and if desired, when hardened 
mold into sticks. 


A Summary 

“ I told you so! ” With what secret superiority 
we give vent to that assertion. All of you who 

157 



‘‘Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


have raced through the summer months with bare 
arms, low necks and often hatless are coming in with 
beauty (or lack of it) wails and tales that would 
drive the average writer well nigh distracted. As 
one cannot work miracles, all of you sun-burned, 
tanned and faded-hair readers will have to work and 
wait until snow flies before you are what you want 
to be. But just think of the fun you have had; fall 
and winter seem twice as long as summer and spring, 
so we will go to it with a vim and see what can be 
accomplished before the social season really opens. 

Fortunately, flowing sleeves of malines and net 
are always becoming and in good style for party 
frocks, and tanned arms may thus be concealed in a 
most satisfactory manner. A harmless bleach for 
both tan and hairs is a mixture in thirds of ammonia, 
peroxide of hydrogen, and water with a pinch of 
baking soda added. This must be used night and 
morning, mop it on and if you do it in between 
times, so much the better. This is really efficacious, 
for if persistently used the hairs will fade, get dis¬ 
couraged and stop growing and tan will disappear. 

An old colored nurse in our household once said 
to me, “ You don’t need no doctor to tell you what I 
knows to be 1 facs,’ honey,” so often I give you very 
simple, harmless remedies in this book that will save 
you money to spend in some other way than on pre- 
158 



Health and Information 


scriptions, if you haven’t time to put together beauty 
remedies. Sour milk is easy to obtain, also lemon 
juice and benzoin. If agreeable to your own par¬ 
ticular skin have a few drops of glycerine at hand. 

To restore your sunburned and tanned hands to 
the soft, smooth and white ones you so greatly de¬ 
sire to show off when playing cards, at thimble par¬ 
ties and everywhere when one does not wear gloves, 
just allow an extra fifteen minutes at bed time, to 
rub in thickly clabbered milk on the backs, fairly 
soak the hands in it. After first washing very clean 
with soap and warm water, dry, then start in with 
the milk. Let them remain ten minutes, more, if 
you are not too sleepy, dry on a soft towel and put 
on a lotion of rosewater, a few drops of benzoin 
and, if you like the glycerine, use that also. Next, 
draw on a pair of old kid gloves, the palms removed 
so that the hands may breathe, and you will be 
amply rewarded after a week or two of this treat¬ 
ment. 

I was brought up in the South and I remember 
one of the teachers in boarding school wore gloves 
all day except at meals during cold weather to pro¬ 
tect her hands, of which she was very vain. Even 
when she was a very old lady her hands were those 
of youth, exquisitely soft, white and free from 
wrinkles. 


159 



“Dame Curtsey’s” Beauty Talks 


This sour milk bath is equally good for the face 
and neck; where there is not sour milk available, 
buttermilk answers the purpose and sweet milk will 
soon become clabbered if kept in a warm place. 

Now, for the hair which has become sunburned; 
this takes the most time, for there is very little to 
be done except brush it with greatest regularity to 
restore the gloss, shampoo every two weeks and 
avoid all artificial restoratives — so-called. In this 
book I am honest, and some of you may wish for 
more remedies, but Mother Nature is very capable 
of working out our beauty problems if we will only 
assist her in a common-sense way. If she has given 
us dark hair when we think she made a mistake by 
so doing and try to become golden blondes, we may 
fool the public for just about fifteen minutes, give 
ourselves endless trouble and in the end (if we are 
honest enough to admit it) we are heartily sorry we 
ever dyed or bleached our tresses. All I am trying 
to do is to help every one make the very best ap¬ 
pearance possible, as that is every woman’s bounden 
duty — to please — by being perfectly well groomed 
and to be in radiant health. Which, in itself, makes 
for the very highest type of beauty. 

I want every young girl reader to take good care 
of her eyes, good care of her hair, scrupulous care 
of her hands, fingernails and her teeth; to sit cor- 



Health and Information 


rectly, to walk with her head well poised and to 
smile charmingly so that everyone will say, “What 
an attractive girl.” All these attributes everyone 
can have and they all make for that indescribable 
“something,” called “personal charm.” 









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